Friday, June 15, 2012


Murghab to Kara-Kul
After reaching the top of the pass (have heaps of photos) didn't see much relief from the snow at all. Snow everywhere and the road was very corrugated and very painful once again. For quite awhile we used a lower road more comfortable till it ended and came upon a group of deserted buildings and stopped for a comfort stop. We were actually warmer when we stopped!!! Sooooo cold again! and only snow in sight!! And no sun straight after this pass!!
IMG_1305Couldn't believe the amount of tiny birds flying around where there were no trees or land not covered in snow for as far as we could see!! Bit of a puzzle.
Phones were flat once again due to the excessive amount of photos taken which always shows how interesting the scenery is!!
At last the sun was in view!! We had Kara-Kul marked on the GPS so soldiered on freezing cold, got seem speed up in an effort to get to the homestay as soon as possible to warm up!! So glad we both agreed even though we'd only been riding three hours it was time to stop!
IMG_5417Couldn't imagine going on!! We were both chilled to the bones. We stopped at the first homestay sign about the first house of the village and a fire was started, we were sat in front of it with our hostess till we thawed to warm and then given a beautiful cup of hot tea, biscuits and sweets!
IMG_5275And soon after lunch!! Of chicken and noodles and bread and tea and sweets once again. Tildahan and daughter Jamilla served it to us in the same room as the fire (which we also ended up sleeping in for the same reason. :)
We were so tired!! Couldn't keep our eyes open after filling up! Looked out the window and saw Tildahan and Jamilla spinning yarn together!! Was very much a tourist and asked to take a photo and then a film!
Spinning wool Karakul Tajikstan.We decided to go for a walk from the homestay through the village to the beautiful lake and on the way there and back got to see so many sights!!

IMG_5285We walked past the village school, then past a group of people setting up a yurt, then past the medical centre, past some outside ovens, saw a well the Japanese had installed, oh and met the village policeman who at first wanted to see our passports (about the only time we hadn't taken them out with us!) but after a chat was quite relaxed, saw a weather station set up, a hug Marco Polo ram's head and horns just sitting there (decided not to leave the walkway for a closer photo in case of any old mines!),
IMG_5304IMG_5302</ IMG_5319a> On the way back we met three young boys who asked us to take their photo. They were very intrigued with the iPhone photo and how we could enlarge it and asked in sign language if they could take photos too so it began with photos of us then of each other and a self portrait too I think.
IMG_5322 IMG_5320 IMG_5334 Still returning we got to see the yurt skeleton by that time intact and they motioned for us to take a photo. We then came across a young woman weaving a rug on a horizontal loom. She kindly gave permission to watch and to use our camera. We did a recording and her eyes lit up when we played it back for her. We talked of asking if we could buy it off her for a good price but got side tracked!!
IMG_5358The homestay also had a visit from a tour of three; American, an Aussie and an Irishman with their two drivers on their way to Murghab so Tildahan had catered a big lunch for them in the main eating area. A busy day for her! The children were on holiday too but Jamilla was a very good help!!
Tildahan had let us know what time dinner would be served and that they were off to a village concert straight after dinner. We bought a ticket too and had the time of our lives!!!
IMG_5390The village hall was packed with the whole village!! Eiric, Tildahan's husband had arranged for his friend's daughter to sit with us as she was studying English. She loves America and hopes to move there eventually. It was a great concert even though no English was spoken. It was a famous Kyrgyzstan comedian, another comedian and a singer. They played his three stooges kind of comedy which starred him and the other two as well!! The comedy skits were very funny because of the body language and faces they made. The whole hall were laughing their heads off!! Have some footage as well as photos :). Ps we all paid the same but Eiric made sure we had pretty much front row so we could "take photos".
IMG_5405Another side note; the policeman we met earlier that afternoon was security for the night and was on the stage waiting for it to begin Craig caught his eye and just laughed and smiled and the policeman made a "they are crazy" motion with his finger!!
Tildahan disappeared part way through the concert and we found out later that at last Sven had arrived!! Must have been after 9!!!???? We had let them know he might be coming. We couldn't see where he would have found anywhere suitable to camp!! We were worried again so were very relieved when we got back from the concert with their friend to be told he was safe and sound in bed after a dinner on arrival.
IMG_5422IMG_5420 We were invited to have tea and a chat after the concert which was great! We learned that they had 11 yaks and 50 odd sheep!

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