tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-88318050328022068892024-02-20T17:35:37.016+10:00Stories from the SeatNo Four Wheel Drives, No Fixers and No Fricken Whingers.Unknownnoreply@blogger.comBlogger66125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8831805032802206889.post-72865842070666214662014-05-28T23:51:00.001+10:002014-05-28T23:51:57.454+10:00Hi from Craig and Sharon. <br />
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We are currently getting the Stories from the Seat website up to date.<br />
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Please enjoy photos of our whole trip which can be found at ciedema.smugmug.com<br />
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The remaining blogs concerning our journey from Kyrgyzstan, through Kazakhstan, Russia, Mongolia, Russia including Siberia, South Korea, Canada and the USA, will be added gradually over the next couple of weeks.<br />
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A shout out to Michaella Dunker and her team of the new magazine, Postioned for Purpose, celebrating its first edition tomorrow.<br />
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<br />Anonymousnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8831805032802206889.post-68254839060021302812012-09-12T18:00:00.001+10:002012-09-12T18:00:32.263+10:00Blog updates. Okay yes, the blog is really behind! I plan to bring it up to date in the next couple of weeks! Just a quick update though.<br /><br />-The bike broke down a couple of times in Kaz and Russia, the last one being pretty major. Which lead me to leave it there as the cost of transport and repairs meant I was better off buying a new one. <br />-We decided to go to North America rather than SE Asia.<br />-We are currently in Canada and have a new bike! <br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />Craig Iedemahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03293645533029832862noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8831805032802206889.post-70813401937855035492012-06-20T02:10:00.000+10:002014-06-14T23:18:51.158+10:00Toktugal<a href="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Kygrystan/Osh/i-CdvRND3/A" title="IMG_2086"><img alt="IMG_2086" src="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Kygrystan/Osh/i-CdvRND3/0/L/IMG_2086-L.jpg" title="IMG_2086" /></a>
<a href="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Kygrystan/Osh/i-k52WzfM/A" title="IMG_2076"><img alt="IMG_2076" src="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Kygrystan/Osh/i-k52WzfM/0/L/IMG_2076-L.jpg" title="IMG_2076" /></a>
<a href="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Kygrystan/Osh/i-CDQvgHJ/A" title="IMG_2092"><img alt="IMG_2092" src="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Kygrystan/Osh/i-CDQvgHJ/0/L/IMG_2092-L.jpg" title="IMG_2092" /></a>
<a href="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Kygrystan/Tokugul/i-sBWrBVL/A" title="IMG_1609"><img alt="IMG_1609" src="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Kygrystan/Tokugul/i-sBWrBVL/0/L/IMG_1609-L.jpg" title="IMG_1609" /></a>On our way to Bishkek we once again found beautiful scenery. We came across another couple pushbike riding (cycling), first Christelle (French) and then Dave (Belgium). They were about ready to stop for the night. They have been travelling for 15 months already!! Thoroughly recommend their website. Their photos are worth the visit. Check out Uzbekistan, Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan!! Catch them at www.ecolesbuissonnieresdasie.com<br />
<a href="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Kygrystan/Osh/i-P6Q46Z8/A" title="IMG_2089"><img alt="IMG_2089" src="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Kygrystan/Osh/i-P6Q46Z8/0/L/IMG_2089-L.jpg" title="IMG_2089" /></a><a href="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Kygrystan/Osh/i-rV58cnf/A" title="IMG_2090"><img alt="IMG_2090" src="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Kygrystan/Osh/i-rV58cnf/0/L/IMG_2090-L.jpg" title="IMG_2090" /></a>
<a href="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Kygrystan/Tokugul/i-mzhVxPN/A" title="IMG_1604"><img alt="IMG_1604" src="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Kygrystan/Tokugul/i-mzhVxPN/0/L/IMG_1604-L.jpg" title="IMG_1604" /></a>
<a href="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Kygrystan/Tokugul/i-bBrH7P7/A" title="IMG_5729"><img alt="IMG_5729" src="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Kygrystan/Tokugul/i-bBrH7P7/0/L/IMG_5729-L.jpg" title="IMG_5729" /></a>
<a href="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Kygrystan/Tokugul/i-dhC7gZN/A" title="IMG_5738"><img alt="IMG_5738" src="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Kygrystan/Tokugul/i-dhC7gZN/0/L/IMG_5738-L.jpg" title="IMG_5738" /></a>We went a further 40 kms to a hotel on the GPS at Toktogul. Was a little hard to find but saw the sign гостиница (gastinista) with an arrow pointing behind other buildings, a Shaslik restaurant for one which we ate at later that night ) to a gated set of three little buildings, one which housed four bedrooms.
<a href="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Kygrystan/Tokugul/i-st9n2tr/A" title="IMG_5728"><img alt="IMG_5728" src="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Kygrystan/Tokugul/i-st9n2tr/0/L/IMG_5728-L.jpg" title="IMG_5728" /></a>
The old lady kept it very tidy and even told Craig off for walking in his socks back and forth from the bike to the room and back, a matter of three or four steps.
<a href="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Kygrystan/Tokugul/i-qB6FXbZ/A" title="IMG_5733"><img alt="IMG_5733" src="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Kygrystan/Tokugul/i-qB6FXbZ/0/L/IMG_5733-L.jpg" title="IMG_5733" /></a>
We had electricity which we were very grateful for and a hole in the floor toilet with an optional extra of a little wooden chair with a hole hanging on the wall. <br />
Three out of four isn't bad - cook and waitress in Shaslik restaurant, friendly; man in a group across the road, friendly; <br />
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<div class="blogpress_location">
Location:<a href="http://maps.google.com/maps?q=Toktugal,%20Kygryzstan%20&z=10">Toktugal, Kygryzstan </a></div>
Craig Iedemahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03293645533029832862noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8831805032802206889.post-72131776173708428962012-06-18T02:07:00.000+10:002014-06-14T22:23:42.904+10:00Osh for some more daysStay in Osh<br />
The Tes Guesthouse was just what the doctor ordered!! And Osh was a n unexpected treat too. Just had to walk back up the stairs to the main road to find many cheap but yummy food in sit down cafes!! And beautiful tea! We tried a few while we were there as the meals were about $1.50 each !!found Osh a very cheap city!<br />
<a href="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Kygrystan/Osh/i-mWgzwHj/A" title="IMG_5561"><img alt="IMG_5561" src="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Kygrystan/Osh/i-mWgzwHj/0/L/IMG_5561-L.jpg" title="IMG_5561" /></a>
<a href="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Kygrystan/Osh/i-gMkW8Kd/A" title="IMG_5557"><img alt="IMG_5557" src="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Kygrystan/Osh/i-gMkW8Kd/0/L/IMG_5557-L.jpg" title="IMG_5557" /></a>
<a href="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Kygrystan/Osh/i-7F7qpwM/A" title="IMG_5555"><img alt="IMG_5555" src="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Kygrystan/Osh/i-7F7qpwM/0/L/IMG_5555-L.jpg" title="IMG_5555" /></a>
<a href="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Kygrystan/Osh/i-txG62Rr/A" title="IMG_5566"><img alt="IMG_5566" src="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Kygrystan/Osh/i-txG62Rr/0/L/IMG_5566-L.jpg" title="IMG_5566" /></a>
The staff at the guesthouse were very helpful (laundry load, wash, dry and iron ) $3!!! Gulchihra (which means princess with face like a flower in persian) was an awesome receptionist and a busy one yet still had time to assist us with many tourist and cultural questions and peel us potatoes one night to present gorgeous potato cakes as an extra to the breakky!! No wonder we ended up staying three nights!!<br />
<a href="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Kygrystan/Osh/i-CLppQ7H/A" title="IMG_5569"><img alt="IMG_5569" src="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Kygrystan/Osh/i-CLppQ7H/0/L/IMG_5569-L.jpg" title="IMG_5569" /></a>
<a href="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Kygrystan/Osh/i-dLfV37c/A" title="IMG_5576"><img alt="IMG_5576" src="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Kygrystan/Osh/i-dLfV37c/0/L/IMG_5576-L.jpg" title="IMG_5576" /></a>
<a href="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Kygrystan/Osh/i-CQ5RM3Q/A" title="IMG_5601"><img alt="IMG_5601" src="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Kygrystan/Osh/i-CQ5RM3Q/0/L/IMG_5601-L.jpg" title="IMG_5601" /></a>For a very reasonable price you could book the hotel driver and we decided to visit the two places Gulchihra had recommended. He disappeared while we ate dinner at this awesome family park with two little fountains, little cars for the kids to ride in (parents controlled the remotes for them), park benches full with people, ice cream vans, food stalls and couches, tables and chairs and bouncing castles, the whole package.<br />
He came back three quarters of an hour later to share a cup of tea with us (didn't take us up on our earlier dinner offer), and shared with us the experience of two wedding parties visiting!! One had the whole works being introduced on the PA and danced in a circle to music, the second looked like the bride and father and flower girl only strolling through.<br />
<a href="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Kygrystan/Osh/i-BXP3bw9/A" title="IMG_5599"><img alt="IMG_5599" src="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Kygrystan/Osh/i-BXP3bw9/0/L/IMG_5599-L.jpg" title="IMG_5599" /></a>
<a href="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Kygrystan/Osh/i-XBrdwLW/A" title="IMG_5611"><img alt="IMG_5611" src="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Kygrystan/Osh/i-XBrdwLW/0/L/IMG_5611-L.jpg" title="IMG_5611" /></a>
<a href="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Kygrystan/Osh/i-ZnBPbsc/A" title="IMG_5605"><img alt="IMG_5605" src="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Kygrystan/Osh/i-ZnBPbsc/0/L/IMG_5605-L.jpg" title="IMG_5605" /></a>
He then motioned towards the mountains and drove us up to a lookout where we could get a good view of this very green city lined with beautiful trees!! Missed the opening times of the museum at the lookout but would recommend by what we saw through the large decorative glass window.<br />
At breakfast we met quite a few interesting fellow residents of the guesthouse who were there for work commitments and so shared very interesting details of their vocations including two locals from Bishkek; a fruit expert and a vegetable expert, consultants to kyrgyzstan farmers. One spoke a little English and we found out he had introduced the Granny Smith there and in his nursery had 50 kinds of apples and 40 odd types of pears!!<br />
Also on arrival we had met a tour director who lives in Osh and two Swiss motorbike riders who had delivered the bikes from Switzerland through Turkmenistan. He was very helpful and found us another new tyre by the time we left; the kindness of strangers!<br />
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<div class="blogpress_location">
Location:<a href="http://maps.google.com/maps?q=Osh,%20Kyrgyzstan%20&z=10">Osh, Kyrgyzstan </a></div>
Craig Iedemahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03293645533029832862noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8831805032802206889.post-8945533065590570882012-06-16T02:06:00.000+10:002014-06-14T22:09:10.033+10:00OshKyrgyzstan border to Osh<br />
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We then came across, around and through many beautiful, green, lush tall mountains on really good roads winding around and around. The photos don't reflect how grand and eye catching these huge mountains were to ride through. <br />
<a href="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Tadjkistan/Karakol/i-jVb5GHP/A" title="IMG_1429"><img alt="IMG_1429" src="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Tadjkistan/Karakol/i-jVb5GHP/0/L/IMG_1429-L.jpg" title="IMG_1429" /></a><a href="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Tadjkistan/Karakol/i-VKdWVn3/A" title="IMG_1387"><img alt="IMG_1387" src="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Tadjkistan/Karakol/i-VKdWVn3/0/L/IMG_1387-L.jpg" title="IMG_1387" /></a>
<a href="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Tadjkistan/Karakol/i-mv8Q3zm/A" title="IMG_1394"><img alt="IMG_1394" src="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Tadjkistan/Karakol/i-mv8Q3zm/0/L/IMG_1394-L.jpg" title="IMG_1394" /></a>
<a href="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Tadjkistan/Karakol/i-gdXWgHg/A" title="IMG_1417"><img alt="IMG_1417" src="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Tadjkistan/Karakol/i-gdXWgHg/0/L/IMG_1417-L.jpg" title="IMG_1417" /></a>
<a href="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Tadjkistan/Karakol/i-sh3nFJs/A" title="IMG_1416"><img alt="IMG_1416" src="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Tadjkistan/Karakol/i-sh3nFJs/0/L/IMG_1416-L.jpg" title="IMG_1416" /></a>It was a real joy. There was quite a bit of roadwork happening but didn't seem to slow anybody down :). No witches hats here just a few rows of rocks on the road about two metres apart to warn you it's a no go on your side of the road before the curve! Hate to be a road worker there! A couple of yurts and Russian style caravans now and then with their big outside pots boiling and sturdy native grazing, all just in view of the roadworks, so much so at firstI thought the first caravan was a catering one for them!! (Craig's phone died at this stage!! Noooooo).<br />
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<a href="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Kygrystan/Osh/i-v2MSx3G/A" title="IMG_5481"><img alt="IMG_5481" src="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Kygrystan/Osh/i-v2MSx3G/0/L/IMG_5481-L.jpg" title="IMG_5481" /></a><a href="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Kygrystan/Osh/i-Gpv73HM/A" title="IMG_5463"><img alt="IMG_5463" src="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Kygrystan/Osh/i-Gpv73HM/0/L/IMG_5463-L.jpg" title="IMG_5463" /></a><a href="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Kygrystan/Osh/i-jkXRfDF/A" title="IMG_5447"><img alt="IMG_5447" src="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Kygrystan/Osh/i-jkXRfDF/0/L/IMG_5447-L.jpg" title="IMG_5447" /></a>We rode past a couple of police check points, stopped for petrol and met some more locals and took a photo with one and then proceeded to be amazed at how many yurts were along the road and in the distance!!! Twice we came to huge amounts if them, the first with over 50 (yes, I counted them,) and the second about 18. The first had markets set up on both sides of the road!! (Another photo opportunity lost when sharon's iPhone ran out of memory!! Upgrading to a better phone with a lot smaller memory was a bad move!)<br />
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<a href="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Kygrystan/Osh/i-DXTDR9g/A" title="IMG_5522"><img alt="IMG_5522" src="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Kygrystan/Osh/i-DXTDR9g/0/L/IMG_5522-L.jpg" title="IMG_5522" /></a><a href="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Kygrystan/Osh/i-tzZm9gD/A" title="IMG_5515"><img alt="IMG_5515" src="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Kygrystan/Osh/i-tzZm9gD/0/L/IMG_5515-L.jpg" title="IMG_5515" /></a><a href="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Tadjkistan/Karakol/i-GzgFX2M/A" title="IMG_1445"><img alt="IMG_1445" src="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Tadjkistan/Karakol/i-GzgFX2M/0/L/IMG_1445-L.jpg" title="IMG_1445" /></a>
<a href="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Tadjkistan/Karakol/i-F4VcmzX/A" title="IMG_1447"><img alt="IMG_1447" src="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Tadjkistan/Karakol/i-F4VcmzX/0/L/IMG_1447-L.jpg" title="IMG_1447" /></a>
At one stage at the bottom of the mountain we came across two german cyclists, a young couple, looking fresh as daisies! All I could think of were the mountains they had yet to come across before they got to Sarytash for the night. We realized we had a friend in common in Sven so hopefully they caught up with him that night :)<br />
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We had been treated to a beautiful valley too riding alongside rushing water most of the time!! <br />
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Deleted a few applications in time to capture a small bit of the drama that ensued!!<br />
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Titled "Mudslide can't stop the big girl!"<br />
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Came across a Lada bogged in the middle if the road which was now just a continuing running stream of mud from the high banks to our right and the Lada driver's left. <br />
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There were vehicles and crowds of people on both sides of the road and spilling all on the grazed areas on each side on our left. As soon as we got there and pulled up on the side of the road up the front where all the action was happening we were encouraged that the big girl could make it easy!! People motioning towards the other side. <br />
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<a href="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Tadjkistan/Karakol/i-DW5nqSR/A" title="IMG_1953"><img alt="IMG_1953" src="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Tadjkistan/Karakol/i-DW5nqSR/0/L/IMG_1953-L.jpg" title="IMG_1953" /></a>It was running pretty fast. We got off soon after one of the trucks pulled the Lada out towards us. Craig helped push the Lada just that bit further out of the way with a few others as at least one of the Tyres was flat by this stage!! (there was a great feeling of everyone digging in and helping in or encouraging!)<br />
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The owner of the Lada chose Craig to give a kiss and a huge and very extended hug of thanks.He then grabbed me and shook my hand and put his hands to face as if they were eye glasses and tried to tell me something. He then dragged me to his wife who made the same motion to me!! I was still trying to make it out when I heard the bike zooming across the mud to encouraging shouts and yahoos from the crowd! (previous to this one truck had gone through and then a huge one with a trailer got stuck right near the bank on the right side if the road so still plenty of room to pass!<br />
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He had warned me a lot earlier that he might have to cross on his own so I wasn't totally surprised so said my "I'm sorry I don't understand but better run" and started to cross on foot. <br />
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Someone yelled and motioned to the truck driver to take me over with his passenger as he was getting ready to go too but I imagined taking forever to get into the cabin with already muddy feet and quickly declined and immediately regretted it as the truck followed hot on my heels as soon as I walked/waded through the thick mud up to my knees with big loose stones underneath my feet!! People were yelling encouragement or maybe warning re the truck so I picked up my pace nearly falling a couple of times. Pretty sure I heard Craig laughing his head off!!!<br />
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Ps I understood a little better why the truck was right behind me when saw him hook up the bogged truck to kindly tow it out! <br />
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We zoomed off as the action continued and soon enough cars came passing by as we came to an abrupt stop to give way to two sets of shepherds with their flock coming up the first hill!! Our bike is so loud Craig likes to give way but the trucks coming the other way were blasting their horns as the bullied their way to what? A mass or cars and trucks making their way slowly through the mudslide!!!<br />
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We rode on in the hope to make Osh for the night not stopping for lunch. We did not stop again til about half an hour before Osh to stretch our legs and tighten the luggage and happened to stop across the road from a young shepherd boy in the process of opening his gate, releasing about 20 sheep to cross the road directly in front of us and as he crossed he came over, said hello and shook both our hands and went to catch up with his sheep, throwing a couple of rocks at them as he did. A short but sweet gidday :) Very memorable- and no ability to take a photo of the moment!! Aaah!! It was nearly 5 p.m. I think and here he was busy working :)<br />
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After a marathon of a day we rode into Osh thinking that was it but were still searching for the Osh Guesthouse and Taj Mahal (knew it was across the road from said guesthouse) and hadn't placed the hotel on the GPS! At last saw the signpost for GPS guesthouse pointing down a small road so we started driving down it but came to concrete steps instead of road. Clearly there was another way down to the guesthouse. I trotted off down the stairs, mud up to my knees to find out at first there were no rooms but one the next night. <br />
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I was exhausted and felt near to tears and as it turned out I was speaking to the owner who, as I was leaving, asked me to wait while she checked what she could do for us and returned with an option of staying on mattresses in a conference room and then in an expensive room the next night for two thirds of the price. To make a long story short, Craig jumped at the offer to go no further, one of the staff got on the back of the bike and directed him and we made it our home for three nights!!! Ps the conference room was very adequate with a toilet and shower down the hall. Heaven to wash hair after four days and a proper shower after three.<br />
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<div class="blogpress_location">
Location:<a href="http://maps.google.com/maps?q=Osh,%20Kyrgyzstan&z=10">Osh, Kyrgyzstan</a></div>
Craig Iedemahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03293645533029832862noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8831805032802206889.post-30800347445858037792012-06-16T02:03:00.000+10:002014-06-14T21:25:41.193+10:00A border crossing and an AK47<a href="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Tadjkistan/Karakol/i-p4ktdgP/A" title="IMG_5418"><img alt="IMG_5418" src="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Tadjkistan/Karakol/i-p4ktdgP/0/L/IMG_5418-L.jpg" title="IMG_5418" /></a>
We enjoyed another breakfast with Sven and once again he was quicker off the mark and was away 20 mins before us.
<a href="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Tadjkistan/Karakol/i-64MWQ9j/A" title="IMG_5419"><img alt="IMG_5419" src="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Tadjkistan/Karakol/i-64MWQ9j/0/L/IMG_5419-L.jpg" title="IMG_5419" /></a> The scenery once 'again was beautiful though quite sparse at times.On the right was China once again, as the day before, the fence following us a lot of the way.<br />
As we went higher it got freezing cold but thankfully for not as long.<br />
Came across many horsemen herding sheep or cattle on the road. <br />
The border crossing was freezing cold and we felt for the poor soldiers and police. We got invited into the warm tin shed into customs to show our passports. A pleasant surprise indeed :) and then a short but very muddy trek to passport control where two Germans on BMW 1200s said a quick hello and then were choofed off to the tin shed we just left. <br />
This is where it got interesting! They seemed friendly enough but it was pretty unnerving when the officer asked if the helmets were bullet proof. By the time Craig had ascertained what he was asking he had grabbed his offsider's rifle and pointed it at Craig's helmet!! Craig quickly (but surprisingly calmly) let him know No!!!!! The conversation then turned to family funnily enough and it was ascertained he was a family man with five children!!<br />
As we left a poor soldier was struggling to walk back to the office heavily laden with heavy firewood for the fire!! <br />
The 25 kms that ensued till the Kyrgyzstan border was absolutely stunning!!<br />
It was full of rolling green mountains and a beautiful view of mountains coming up of Maroon, green, red and brown, all of them so very high!! Many beautiful green jade colored stones small and large lining the road and the rushing water's edge.<br />
Not far from the Taj side many marmots were playing together on our left but no camera!!<br />
There were two houses in a valley shortly after the Tajik post, buildings on the right side, outhouses on the left.<br />
At last we stopped and got Craig's phone out to take some photos.<br />
The border crossing into Kyrgyzstan was completely painless and vey quick! While we were waiting we noticed a soldier working hard on a Lada four wheel drive without many tools. After we were free to go Craig took over his tool kit and his offer was met with big thankful pat on the back but it was no thanks :) <br />
One of the easiest border crossings yet! On to Osh!<br />
<br />
<div class="blogpress_location">
Location:<a href="http://maps.google.com/maps?q=Osh,%20Kygryzstan&z=10">Osh, Kygryzstan</a></div>
Craig Iedemahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03293645533029832862noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8831805032802206889.post-6333784278273047452012-06-15T02:00:00.000+10:002014-06-14T21:19:38.108+10:00Kara-KulMurghab to Kara-Kul<br />
After reaching the top of the pass (have heaps of photos) didn't see much relief from the snow at all. Snow everywhere and the road was very corrugated and very painful once again. For quite awhile we used a lower road more comfortable till it ended and came upon a group of deserted buildings and stopped for a comfort stop. We were actually warmer when we stopped!!! Sooooo cold again! and only snow in sight!! And no sun straight after this pass!!<br />
<a href="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Tadjkistan/Karakol/i-MCq4pmF/A" title="IMG_1305"><img alt="IMG_1305" src="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Tadjkistan/Karakol/i-MCq4pmF/0/L/IMG_1305-L.jpg" title="IMG_1305" /></a>Couldn't believe the amount of tiny birds flying around where there were no trees or land not covered in snow for as far as we could see!! Bit of a puzzle.<br />
Phones were flat once again due to the excessive amount of photos taken which always shows how interesting the scenery is!! <br />
At last the sun was in view!! We had Kara-Kul marked on the GPS so soldiered on freezing cold, got seem speed up in an effort to get to the homestay as soon as possible to warm up!! So glad we both agreed even though we'd only been riding three hours it was time to stop!<br />
<a href="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Tadjkistan/Karakol/i-vS4cGRF/A" title="IMG_5417"><img alt="IMG_5417" src="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Tadjkistan/Karakol/i-vS4cGRF/0/L/IMG_5417-L.jpg" title="IMG_5417" /></a>Couldn't imagine going on!! We were both chilled to the bones. We stopped at the first homestay sign about the first house of the village and a fire was started, we were sat in front of it with our hostess till we thawed to warm and then given a beautiful cup of hot tea, biscuits and sweets! <br />
<a href="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Tadjkistan/Karakol/i-KwVcWHZ/A" title="IMG_5275"><img alt="IMG_5275" src="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Tadjkistan/Karakol/i-KwVcWHZ/0/L/IMG_5275-L.jpg" title="IMG_5275" /></a>And soon after lunch!! Of chicken and noodles and bread and tea and sweets once again. Tildahan and daughter Jamilla served it to us in the same room as the fire (which we also ended up sleeping in for the same reason. :)<br />
We were so tired!! Couldn't keep our eyes open after filling up! Looked out the window and saw Tildahan and Jamilla spinning yarn together!! Was very much a tourist and asked to take a photo and then a film! <br />
<a href="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Tadjkistan/Karakol/i-WQ5psLL/A" title="Spinning wool Karakul Tajikstan."><img alt="Spinning wool Karakul Tajikstan." src="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Tadjkistan/Karakol/i-WQ5psLL/0/L/IMG_5283-L.jpg" title="Spinning wool Karakul Tajikstan." /></a>We decided to go for a walk from the homestay through the village to the beautiful lake and on the way there and back got to see so many sights!!<br />
<br />
<a href="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Tadjkistan/Karakol/i-sxxZxgj/A" title="IMG_5285"><img alt="IMG_5285" src="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Tadjkistan/Karakol/i-sxxZxgj/0/L/IMG_5285-L.jpg" title="IMG_5285" /></a>We walked past the village school, then past a group of people setting up a yurt, then past the medical centre, past some outside ovens, saw a well the Japanese had installed, oh and met the village policeman who at first wanted to see our passports (about the only time we hadn't taken them out with us!) but after a chat was quite relaxed, saw a weather station set up, a hug Marco Polo ram's head and horns just sitting there (decided not to leave the walkway for a closer photo in case of any old mines!), <br />
<a href="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Tadjkistan/Karakol/i-35MkKFg/A" title="IMG_5304"><img alt="IMG_5304" src="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Tadjkistan/Karakol/i-35MkKFg/0/L/IMG_5304-L.jpg" title="IMG_5304" /></a><a href="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Tadjkistan/Karakol/i-6HMPqz5/A" title="IMG_5302"><img alt="IMG_5302" src="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Tadjkistan/Karakol/i-6HMPqz5/0/L/IMG_5302-L.jpg" title="IMG_5302" /></
</a><a href="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Tadjkistan/Karakol/i-d4dZLfD/A" title="IMG_5319"><img alt="IMG_5319" src="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Tadjkistan/Karakol/i-d4dZLfD/0/L/IMG_5319-L.jpg" title="IMG_5319" /></a>a>
On the way back we met three young boys who asked us to take their photo. They were very intrigued with the iPhone photo and how we could enlarge it and asked in sign language if they could take photos too so it began with photos of us then of each other and a self portrait too I think. <br />
<a href="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Tadjkistan/Karakol/i-9L7mCmg/A" title="IMG_5322"><img alt="IMG_5322" src="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Tadjkistan/Karakol/i-9L7mCmg/0/L/IMG_5322-L.jpg" title="IMG_5322" /></a>
<a href="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Tadjkistan/Karakol/i-DWcc4SX/A" title="IMG_5320"><img alt="IMG_5320" src="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Tadjkistan/Karakol/i-DWcc4SX/0/L/IMG_5320-L.jpg" title="IMG_5320" /></a>
<a href="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Tadjkistan/Karakol/i-4rGkMSw/A" title="IMG_5334"><img alt="IMG_5334" src="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Tadjkistan/Karakol/i-4rGkMSw/0/L/IMG_5334-L.jpg" title="IMG_5334" /></a>
Still returning we got to see the yurt skeleton by that time intact and they motioned for us to take a photo. We then came across a young woman weaving a rug on a horizontal loom. She kindly gave permission to watch and to use our camera. We did a recording and her eyes lit up when we played it back for her. We talked of asking if we could buy it off her for a good price but got side tracked!!<br />
<a href="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Tadjkistan/Karakol/i-BPfpxrx/A" title="IMG_5358"><img alt="IMG_5358" src="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Tadjkistan/Karakol/i-BPfpxrx/0/L/IMG_5358-L.jpg" title="IMG_5358" /></a>The homestay also had a visit from a tour of three; American, an Aussie and an Irishman with their two drivers on their way to Murghab so Tildahan had catered a big lunch for them in the main eating area. A busy day for her! The children were on holiday too but Jamilla was a very good help!!<br />
Tildahan had let us know what time dinner would be served and that they were off to a village concert straight after dinner. We bought a ticket too and had the time of our lives!!!<br />
<a href="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Tadjkistan/Karakol/i-Kj5f5D2/A" title="IMG_5390"><img alt="IMG_5390" src="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Tadjkistan/Karakol/i-Kj5f5D2/0/L/IMG_5390-L.jpg" title="IMG_5390" /></a>The village hall was packed with the whole village!! Eiric, Tildahan's husband had arranged for his friend's daughter to sit with us as she was studying English. She loves America and hopes to move there eventually. It was a great concert even though no English was spoken. It was a famous Kyrgyzstan comedian, another comedian and a singer. They played his three stooges kind of comedy which starred him and the other two as well!! The comedy skits were very funny because of the body language and faces they made. The whole hall were laughing their heads off!! Have some footage as well as photos :). Ps we all paid the same but Eiric made sure we had pretty much front row so we could "take photos". <br />
<a href="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Tadjkistan/Karakol/i-PBWtCg6/A" title="IMG_5405"><img alt="IMG_5405" src="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Tadjkistan/Karakol/i-PBWtCg6/0/L/IMG_5405-L.jpg" title="IMG_5405" /></a>Another side note; the policeman we met earlier that afternoon was security for the night and was on the stage waiting for it to begin Craig caught his eye and just laughed and smiled and the policeman made a "they are crazy" motion with his finger!!<br />
Tildahan disappeared part way through the concert and we found out later that at last Sven had arrived!! Must have been after 9!!!???? We had let them know he might be coming. We couldn't see where he would have found anywhere suitable to camp!! We were worried again so were very relieved when we got back from the concert with their friend to be told he was safe and sound in bed after a dinner on arrival.<br />
<a href="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Tadjkistan/Karakol/i-RzGnq7L/A" title="IMG_5422"><img alt="IMG_5422" src="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Tadjkistan/Karakol/i-RzGnq7L/0/L/IMG_5422-L.jpg" title="IMG_5422" /></a><a href="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Tadjkistan/Karakol/i-DQRnZBM/A" title="IMG_5420"><img alt="IMG_5420" src="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Tadjkistan/Karakol/i-DQRnZBM/0/L/IMG_5420-L.jpg" title="IMG_5420" /></a>
We were invited to have tea and a chat after the concert which was great! We learned that they had 11 yaks and 50 odd sheep!<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="blogpress_location">
Location:<a href="http://maps.google.com/maps?q=Kara-Kul,%20Tadjkistan&z=10">Kara-Kul, Tadjkistan</a></div>
Craig Iedemahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03293645533029832862noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8831805032802206889.post-20174011815010775632012-06-14T01:56:00.000+10:002014-05-17T23:01:14.370+10:00MurghabAfter another wonderful breakfast supplied by Lalmore we packed up and set off on our way to Murghab.<br />
We were going to look at the Botanic Gardens and headed that way but Craig wasn't keen to dilly dally seeing we knew we'd be going over snow in the mountains so turned back.<br />
We went through a few more villages and came across some pretty bad road on the way. We met Dave from Mullimbimby, Australia who was on a pushbike. A real Aussie accent, dreadlocks and very friendly. <br />
<a href="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Tadjkistan/Khorog/i-dBZc2Rf/A" title="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug"><img alt="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug" src="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Tadjkistan/Khorog/i-dBZc2Rf/0/M/IMG_1624-M.jpg" title="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug" /></a>
<a href="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Tadjkistan/Khorog/i-7Z9qw3n/A" title="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug"><img alt="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug" src="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Tadjkistan/Khorog/i-7Z9qw3n/0/M/IMG_1625-M.jpg" title="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug" /></a>
Came into some soft snow flakes and thought, "Oh, that's cute," but then it got heavier and heavier like sleet and rough road too and wasn't pleasant. It was freezing!!!<br />
<a href="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Tadjkistan/Khorog/i-z5H4bVc/A" title="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug"><img alt="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug" src="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Tadjkistan/Khorog/i-z5H4bVc/0/M/IMG_1725-M.jpg" title="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug" /></a><a href="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Tadjkistan/Khorog/i-6G8Kmkw/A" title="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug"><img alt="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug" src="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Tadjkistan/Khorog/i-6G8Kmkw/0/M/IMG_1689-M.jpg" title="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug" /></a><a href="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Tadjkistan/Khorog/i-9CrQMWt/A" title="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug"><img alt="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug" src="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Tadjkistan/Khorog/i-9CrQMWt/0/M/IMG_1686-M.jpg" title="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug" /></a><a href="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Tadjkistan/Khorog/i-95nmjQW/A" title="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug"><img alt="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug" src="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Tadjkistan/Khorog/i-95nmjQW/0/M/IMG_1673-M.jpg" title="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug" /></a><a href="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Tadjkistan/Khorog/i-ZLK5Xgh/A" title="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug"><img alt="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug" src="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Tadjkistan/Khorog/i-ZLK5Xgh/0/M/IMG_1630-M.jpg" title="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug" /></a>Even before that I had thought how bumping away reminded me of when I was pregnant with Amy and on the way to the Mt Alvernia Hospital in Bendigo, with a full bladder for a scan, suffering greatly at each bump in the short five minute journey.<br />
This seemed to be 10 times worse and longer!!!<br />
So here we were going through sleet, could hardly see, freezing cold, bumpy most of the time and dying to go to the toilet - and couldn't take photos!!! That was one of the most frustrating things because it's certainly not every day you're in this situation!!!<br />
At one stage couldn't believe we came across s house!!! Craig saw one with smoke coming out of the chimney. <br />
Blue skies were so welcome after but still couldn't relax as the road was extremely bumpy so pretty painful!! I mentioned to Craig if he can find anything resembling a hidey hole could he stop. He was having the same problem and discomfort so was happy to, as it turns out next to a drain with wings about five foot down the side of the deserted road so that was great. :)<br />
<a href="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Tadjkistan/Khorog/i-GH8DpHz/A" title="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug"><img alt="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug" src="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Tadjkistan/Khorog/i-GH8DpHz/0/M/IMG_1741-M.jpg" title="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug" /></a>
Time to try using Danielle, Lalmore's suggestions and whipped out the long bit of material Sarsinov helped me buy in the markets at Denov in Uzbekistan just in case someone could see me.<br />
<a href="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Tadjkistan/Khorog/i-Rjvj66p/A" title="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug"><img alt="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug" src="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Tadjkistan/Khorog/i-Rjvj66p/0/M/IMG_1776-M.jpg" title="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug" /></a>The weather behaved itself for awhile and not long after we passed a homestay named Marco Polo we came upon Sven from Germany on a pushbike also, also with some dreadlocks and awfully nice too! <br />
<a href="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Tadjkistan/Khorog/i-vVdTL7K/A" title=""><img alt="" src="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Tadjkistan/Khorog/i-vVdTL7K/0/M/IMG_1811-M.jpg" title="" /></a><a href="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Tadjkistan/Khorog/i-d8JjwC4/A" title=""><img alt="" src="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Tadjkistan/Khorog/i-d8JjwC4/0/M/IMG_1812-M.jpg" title="" /></a><a href="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Tadjkistan/Khorog/i-vgpSmsP/A" title="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug"><img alt="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug" src="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Tadjkistan/Khorog/i-vgpSmsP/0/M/IMG_1802-M.jpg" title="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug" /></a>We were a bit worried about him as he asked how many kilometers to Murghab on the GPS, Craig said 95 km and he seemed to be saying that's good and he would still expect to be in Murghab so we gave him the name of Sary Kol Lodge where we were going to stay there. It was already already mid afternoon.<br />
We had another pass before Murghab and so did Sven. <br />
We all clicked two days later when he double checked the kilometres with Craig again. He explained when Craig said 95 he took it as 59 because in Germany you say the second number first. One of those little differences in culture that wouldn't have mattered if Craig had rounded up his answer to 100 :) but made a huge difference to Sven; almost 50 kilometres and maybe three hours!!<br />
We then went through another heavy rain/snow and it was extremely cold. After that I didn't get to take many more photos as didn't want to get it wet and the time I risked it had problems.<br />
Somewhere on the journey once again I did not capture the images of the cute little bright yellow marmots popping up on the side of the road (as in Kazakhstan).<br />
When I couldn't take photos the scenery changed dramatically! The mountains first changed from brown/red but also there were great crevices in the earth either side. Also so many layers of different scenery. On your left you would see the crevices in the earth in the foreground, mountains of different shapes and sizes and colors all together between you and the snow capped mountains not that far away!!! Should have gone back the next day for photos!!<br />
At the near end of our journey for that day we had a checkpoint with police outside Murgab where you could just see the village in the distance. They took our passports but were friendly. Someone was changing a tyre there and another man was talking to me in sign language (Craig was inside the guard house). He had asked if I was married. When I said yes he motioned slitting someone's throat!!! He was drunk and the second policeman was with me the whole time and was joking around not taking him seriously. He tried to say the same thing to Craig he came out.<br />
We were so relieved to get back on the bike as it was so cold and we could see the town so we were encouraged!! Didn't take too long to find the homestay - near the end of the village. <br />
<a href="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Tadjkistan/Murghab/i-7fc8JKR/A" title="IMG_1897_2"><img alt="IMG_1897_2" src="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Tadjkistan/Murghab/i-7fc8JKR/0/M/IMG_1897_2-M.jpg" title="IMG_1897_2" /></a><a href="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Tadjkistan/Murghab/i-ZbR6SFH/A" title="IMG_1093"><img alt="IMG_1093" src="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Tadjkistan/Murghab/i-ZbR6SFH/0/M/IMG_1093-M.jpg" title="IMG_1093" /></a>
We were welcomed with a place to put our bike and a hot cup of tea and biscuits and chocolates soon after on some cosy cushions!! ( and some hot water to have a warm wash in lovely new inside bathroom to take the cool chill out of our bones before dinner not too long after!!!). The water is from the well and the women of the family have to draw and carry it so we tried not to use too much.<br />
European toilet! Bonus! (outside in a separate building)<br />
Felt a lot warmer after that but put our thermals back on and still a couple of extra layers(we'd been just sooooo cold)<br />
We were brought a beautiful dinner of small pieces off meat on a bed or rice with small cloves of roasted garlic through it!! (apparently called Plov). Scrumptious! Also as with every meal we were brought a pot of black tea, a pot of green tea, and a pot of not water for coffee!!, some dried apricots and little fish shaped biscuits and lots of bread!!<br />
<a href="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Tadjkistan/Khorog/i-kk4wk4X/A" title="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug"><img alt="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug" src="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Tadjkistan/Khorog/i-kk4wk4X/0/M/IMG_5194-M.jpg" title="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug" /></a>We had a chat with Jacqueline who helped set up the guesthouse and runs the rebreeding program - reintroduction of kyrgyzstan horses to the Murghab area which are a hardier breed to the introduced Russian horses who have been dying in the extreme minus 50 temperatures the last couple of years and causing a lot of hardship for the farmers.<br />
She also helped set up solar electricity in the hospital and the homestay and village. She is trying to work out how to organize hot water in a way that would not use more water (tourists not always considerate). One tourist who stayed the night before us used 50 litres on their own! Craig told her of a few Australian companies that could help. He also suggested the 20 Lt camping bags that heat up during the day to be used at night. She had concerns tourists would then expect to use a bag each, a whole 20 litres to be collected per person. Craig is working in this problem :)<br />
<a href="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Tadjkistan/Murghab/i-96WCF3H/A" title="IMG_5203"><img alt="IMG_5203" src="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Tadjkistan/Murghab/i-96WCF3H/0/M/IMG_5203-M.jpg" title="IMG_5203" /></a>
Jacqueline is based in Bishkek but half the time is in Murghab too.<br />
Nurizat, who did most of the running after us at Sary Kol spoke excellent English and was full of very interesting facts but also was interested in what we were doing too. She spoke regarding having GPS points on their advertising material to Craig and he was able to provide them for her.<br />
We went to bed feeling so much better than when we arrived and heard Sven come in when we thought it was 9. (Nuzilat snd her family had been looking iut for him after we'd said how worried we were when he hadn't arrived).<br />
We found out in the morning that our phones were both one hour behind the correct time when we went out for breakfast at what we thought was 8 and it was actually 9!! So embarrassed!<br />
Sven had breakfast with us and so waited!!! His website is svejnsworld.wordpress.com<br />
Thoroughly recommend catching up with his adventures now and then. The distances he covered in the time he did over the terrain he did in the two days of travel we shared was amazing!!! He is a hardcore pushbike rider for sure!! As they say in the "Stan's", "EXTREME"!!!!<br />
Getting back to our homestay - Nurizat said ,when asked ,that people are usually expected to leave around 9 or 10!! We decided to stay one more night. It ended up being $45 each night which included breakfast and dinner each day which included breakfast and dinner each day and afternoon tea when we arrived and the next afternoon too (lovely surprise of dried mulberries and apricots and biscuits and chocolates )<br />
<a href="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Tadjkistan/Khorog/i-ChqxgJZ/A" title="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug"><img alt="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug" src="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Tadjkistan/Khorog/i-ChqxgJZ/0/M/IMG_5190-M.jpg" title="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug" /></a>
<a href="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Tadjkistan/Murghab/i-tCbSjpw/A" title="IMG_1931"><img alt="IMG_1931" src="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Tadjkistan/Murghab/i-tCbSjpw/0/M/IMG_1931-M.jpg" title="IMG_1931" /></a>
We'd had a beautiful sleep the first night and after a leisurely (late) breakfast we set off for the Murghab village markets Nurizat had suggested. Just a short walk down the main road where rows of containers stood cold and not so visually appealing the night before were the open containers overflowing with colour, food, clothes, people everywhere filling the gravel roads between them. The men in their white felt hats were particularly interesting. Many women, as we walked towards them would hold their scarves over their faces, something I noticed the afternoon before as we drove thorough but had thought then it was because of the cold whereas it was quite a warm day.<br />
On the walk from Sary Kol Lodge we were heralded by a little boy or girl playing peek a boo with us around the corner if their house saying hello each time until we were quite a distance away. We had many hellos from young people at the markets and smiles from some. (On the way back we heard a faint hello from somewhere and it was a young girl sitting on a porch quite a distance away waving ).<br />
Nurizat had also recommended a cafe called Rahut (Рахат) which is a local favorite. I took some photos but it doesn't really capture the flavor of busyness of the ladies cooking and serving as opposed to the comfort and restfulness experienced by ourselves and other patrons. <br />
There were rooms with curtains through which you could catch glimpses of people enjoying a private meal. We stopped in the main entry and sat at the first table to meet and eat with a young German couple, Moritz and Clare, who are hitch hiking in the same direction for awhile but then China. They were at another homestay starting with E :)! Their website is www.gut-gelaufen.com<br />
They had an appointment with a lift at 2 so we said our goodbyes.<br />
That was the first time we'd been introduced to Shorpo, soup with meat in the bone in the middle and knew from then on if we didn't know what was on the. Eu just to ask for that :) and a coke or and choi (tea). Did us well. Oh and Manty (pronounced Monty), (large filled pasta filled with meat with no sauce- maybe in soup).<br />
We got back and were being lazy when we heard Nurizat out in the common room. She'd set up some afternoon tea for us!!! Saying "thought you might be thirsty". How lovely.<br />
Thank goodness we could recharge our phones and the camera as we had electricity from about 7:30 each night til after breakfast the next day.<br />
While we were staying at the guesthouse Nuzilat's brothers were busy collecting rocks and then beginning the building of another part of the building to annexe a kitchen. Nuzilat's mother and sister-in-law currently cook the meals in the family buildings on either side of the guesthouse. <br />
There was a tourist centre but we didn't get to visit it :) too much other stuff to do. :)<br />
In our chats with Nurizat we discovered a new school will open later in this year for all grades, kids from 7years to 18. She feels they should teach more English than they do as she said they just learn one word or two a week like "bucket" and that she didn't learn that way but through sponsorship to Bishkek university to learn English and living with someone who only spoke English at the same time.<br />
We asked about jobs and she said there are many without jobs. The women certainly look busy enough!!certainly no washing machines, no running water.<br />
We also found out that girls are still being kidnapped as brides by men from other villages and that boys from her village have done the same. This is a constant threat for the girls in these areas.<br />
The reality of it came when Nurizat's sister in law came to check on her after we'd got talking for so long that it was 11:45. Her family were worried about her!! What an eye opener. (Any prayers out there huge prayer points there!!!)<br />
We went to bed with lots on our mind! <br />
Woke up and were on time for a breakfast for the second time of a delicious rice cereal (semolina? Tapioca?) and raisins. We'd been fed up with a lovely dinner of pasta pancake (layers of pasta and meat and potato and onion et cetera rolled like a strudel and sliced in to rings. Mmm,.<br />
We were all a bit tired and not looking forward to the next pass after the previous cold and wet one two days before.<br />
<a href="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Tadjkistan/Karakol/i-ZnsWzxJ/A" title="Our hosts Murghab, Tajikstan"><img alt="Our hosts Murghab, Tajikstan" src="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Tadjkistan/Karakol/i-ZnsWzxJ/0/M/IMG_1099-M.jpg" title="Our hosts Murghab, Tajikstan" /></a>
<a href="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Tadjkistan/Karakol/i-kP9svVr/A" title="IMG_1103"><img alt="IMG_1103" src="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Tadjkistan/Karakol/i-kP9svVr/0/M/IMG_1103-M.jpg" title="IMG_1103" /></a>
Nuzilat and her family gave us a lovely send off and her little niece had a photo taken on the bike. After a false start past the Chinese truck depot to an airport no longer used we got away on the gravel road and quite awhile later caught up with Sven who left 20 mins before us!<br />
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<div class="blogpress_location">
Location:<a href="http://maps.google.com/maps?q=Murghab,%20Tadjikistan&z=10">Murghab, Tadjikistan</a></div>
Craig Iedemahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03293645533029832862noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8831805032802206889.post-32100642843229127852012-06-11T01:48:00.000+10:002014-07-13T17:04:40.734+10:00Khorog, Lalmore Lodge<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Khorog - homestay -the next day 7/6/2012 Craig's mum and his sister Katherine ran around everywhere trying to send us money as all bank ATMs wouldn't take his or my MasterCard. After breakfast encouraged him to try to just go into the bank and use his card as in Samarkand when the ATMs weren't working for everyone.<br />
<br />
It ended up that both worked so we now have plenty in case of similar emergencies!<br />
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It was 11:30 am by the time we were all packed after Craig had picked up the other from agar bank via western union from Katherine.<br />
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We then went to leave and the receptionist said they had another room free now unexpectedly but we preferred to try somewherelse.<br />
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We drove up to the direction of the palmir lodge but saw a homestay sign and decided to stay here and have been so glad.<br />
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Lalmore is our hostess and is always so very gracious and accommodating. At the moment her sister is visiting from Moscow with her daughter and she has been busy with us and others , Swiss couple first night, Japanese couple second night just us third night. She cooked us all dinner the second night which was divine. Chicken curry and rice and a salad and dried mulberries, plums, figs, sultanas.tea and cherry juice - real cherry juice. <br />
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Our breakfasts have been one to look forward to each morning not as flash as Marion's guesthouse but lovely big slices bread, real apricot jam (so many apricots you can count., Cherries(still with pips). <br />
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Lalmore said that they usually only have milky tea themselves for breakfast as that is what they love. <br />
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The first afternoon we went and had lunch at the cafe by the river which was just lovely. I had chicken chow mien and Craig the curry beef. We watched the kids (all boys) swimming in the raging river . Some jumping in and swimming past rocks to shore quickly as not to be swept further down. Others jumped in way to our left and did the same past us . It would have been freezing. We saw this on the 9th too when we went about 1:30 after the Afghan markets.<br />
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The first night we didn't have dinner. I had been on the toilet all afternoon into the evening and didn't feel like anything. Craig had biscuits -.whole packet -(little).<br />
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8/6/2012<br />
First morning we talked to Barbara and Marcus from Switzerland while they had breakfast before they whizzed off for an appointed time with a jeep from Palmir Lodge with two other Australians.<br />
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We went down to the normal markets to look for a journal and bought one and an ice cream and then were bowled up by Zeba a local from 14 kms away. She was nicely dressed and spoke very fast English and didnt always listen to what we were saying, she said she spoke to foreigners to practice her English. She walked with us. I tried to take a couple of photos. <br />
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We didn't buy anything except some pancakes -looked like battered fish). We gave her some and then sat down and had some water -ended up being soda water. She had spoke of her twin sister a lot and how not to drink beer and smoke because her parents don't and yet her dad had a big belly. She also spoke of the unemployed boys and how more of their girls were at university.<br />
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She had been at university for four years learning English but said she couldn't get a job because she kept fainting and trying to get cure.<br />
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Before we went for the water she introduced us to two of her professors from the Agha Kan university but they weren't her English professors. One was especially friendly and invited us to his house 25 kms away where they were going. We said no thanks about four times :)<br />
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She also introduced from afar some one else she knew from college ready to drive a packed car. Took a photo and said hello (asked permission for photo).<br />
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She ended up admitting that she would like 10 somones from us for her treatment. Craig gave her 20 and we said goodbye. (we have been praying for her since. Better late than never!!??!!)<br />
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We walked home and awaited the dinner we had ordered from Lalmore and weren't disapponted!! She looked stunning too in her headdress and lovely dress.<br />
<a href="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Tadjkistan/Khorog/i-d6sFd7C/A" title="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug"><img alt="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug" src="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Tadjkistan/Khorog/i-d6sFd7C/0/M/IMG_4802-M.jpg" title="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug" /></a><a href="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Tadjkistan/Khorog/i-W8rZ7gk/A" title="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug"><img alt="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug" src="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Tadjkistan/Khorog/i-W8rZ7gk/0/M/IMG_4803-M.jpg" title="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug" /></a><br />
We got to know the three Japanese guests over dinner a little, can't remember their names though the girl Craig said is Kim. She wasn't eating, just drank some juice after trying to get the tv to work. I think she understood English the best.<br />
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They left the next morning as we were getting up as they had decided to try to get a flight from Khorog airport. Apparently getting onto a flight is usually very hard as weather is one factor and also only there are only 14 seats on the plane plus these quite often are filled with government officials. They were coming back if weren't able to but did not return.<br />
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Saturday 9/6/2012<br />
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Craig slept in and decided we would like to stay another night as I had been keen on the afghan markets which start at nine. We didn't get there til 11:45 so maybe not as much there but craig bought a pancake and we walked quickly around and bought a tablecloth for his mum and a hat for him to keep as a souvenir. We travelled by taxi bus there and back which was great. On our own from town markets and packed out on the way back.<br />
<a href="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Tadjkistan/Khorog/i-Kc53GGv/A" title="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug"><img alt="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug" src="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Tadjkistan/Khorog/i-Kc53GGv/0/M/IMG_4836-M.jpg" title="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug" /></a>
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<a href="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Tadjkistan/Khorog/i-PMzMpZp/A" title="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug"><img alt="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug" src="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Tadjkistan/Khorog/i-PMzMpZp/0/M/IMG_4829-M.jpg" title="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug" /></a><a href="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Tadjkistan/Khorog/i-g43L6np/A" title=""><img alt="" src="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Tadjkistan/Khorog/i-g43L6np/0/M/IMG_4831-M.jpg" title="" /></a><a href="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Tadjkistan/Khorog/i-ZxBZHWs/A" title=""><img alt="" src="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Tadjkistan/Khorog/i-ZxBZHWs/0/M/IMG_4830-M.jpg" title="" /></a><a href="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Tadjkistan/Khorog/i-p76Z7LH/A" title=""><img alt="" src="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Tadjkistan/Khorog/i-p76Z7LH/0/M/IMG_4832-M.jpg" title="" /></a><a href="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Tadjkistan/Khorog/i-tPzDmjs/A" title=""><img alt="" src="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Tadjkistan/Khorog/i-tPzDmjs/0/M/IMG_4833-M.jpg" title="" /></a>We then went to the cafe again Craig for a salad and I wasn't hungry but we stayed there ages just watching everyone; the kids again in the river, bit more tentatively this time as colder still, ladies across the river washing big rugs by using bucketed water from the river.<br />
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I ended up ordering a hot chocolate and cake and Craig a hot chocolate also.<br />
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We tried to see the craft stall which we thought was in the youth centre but after walking in it was closed.<br />
<a href="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Tadjkistan/Khorog/i-MCQfs9G/A" title="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug"><img alt="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug" src="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Tadjkistan/Khorog/i-MCQfs9G/0/M/IMG_4778-M.jpg" title="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug" /></a>
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<br />
<a href="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Tadjkistan/Khorog/i-GZ4kK7d/A" title="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug"><img alt="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug" src="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Tadjkistan/Khorog/i-GZ4kK7d/0/M/IMG_4779-M.jpg" title="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug" /></a>On walking home we stopped into a little shop and met a lovely lady who spoke a little English called Asher. We took a photo after buying two packets biscuits and a box of juice for the road. She told Craig the hat was for me :). We later ascertained it is a mans hat.<br />
<a href="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Tadjkistan/Khorog/i-KNcvxq9/A" title="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug"><img alt="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug" src="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Tadjkistan/Khorog/i-KNcvxq9/0/M/IMG_4865-M.jpg" title="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug" /></a>
<a href="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Tadjkistan/Khorog/i-wcVg9xX/A" title=""><img alt="" src="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Tadjkistan/Khorog/i-wcVg9xX/0/M/IMG_4856-M.jpg" title="" /></a>
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We dilly dallied the rest of the afternoon, Craig on phone and sleeping and me watching the washing in huge wind and enjoying the scenery and having a quiet time with bible and prayer and song.<br />
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In the morning while Craig had been sleeping in I had watched a shepherd herding his sheep up the mountain and also been listening to a neighbors music traditional style. Was lovely morning even though I didn't know if we were going or not that day.<br />
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<br />
After sharing photos with Lalmore and Katchya we went down to have dinner but all restaurants closed - 8:30. We went to a little shop and bought bread, two minute noodles and yoghurt for dinner. We bothered Lalmore for boiling water and in the end she made us a pot of tea also and brought more dried fruits; a real treat. We met her hubby properly and chatted and took photos and while we ate our dinner in the lounge room on the floor they chatted in the kitchen.<br />
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Nearly forgot to mention that Katchya had kindly made me a traditional blouse and pants out of some material her daughter had brought from Moscow. She whizzed it up very quickly and the pants are the most comfortable pants I think I've ever owned!! Mine aren't quite traditional as they showed me that usually there is an elasticised band of material at the top of the pant to make it easy to go to the restroom. Her fee was very very reasonable.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Tadjkistan/Khorog/i-VxMNMh5/A" title="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug"><img alt="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug" src="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Tadjkistan/Khorog/i-VxMNMh5/0/M/IMG_4821-M.jpg" title="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug" /></a>Off to bed for last night :)<br />
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<div class="blogpress_location">
Location:<a href="http://maps.google.com/maps?q=Khorog,%20Tadjkistan%20%4053.360066%2C83.767102&z=10">Khorog, Tadjkistan </a></div>
</div>
Craig Iedemahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03293645533029832862noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8831805032802206889.post-59769096190902495982012-06-07T01:47:00.000+10:002014-05-17T23:26:06.266+10:00Khorog, Deli DebarKhorog - Delhi bar. <br />
We arrived in Khorog with Craig feeling very worried about money. He was looking for a bank that would let him use his MasterCard to no avail. My internet wasn't working also. While he went to the bank I went to TCell. No go for either of us. Tcell really busy because lunch so big line up as they tried to fix so I said I would go back in hour or two.<br />
Had seen information desk so I went to look for that while Craig tried another bank. Had to ask a young girl and she asked her teacher and after a while we ascertained that it was the tourist centre I needed and it was through some gates near a park -just where I was but further. They need more signs :) <br />
They had a map there and she advised on motels et cetera. We should have stayed at palmir lodger or homestay but we went for what we thought would give us wifi and a bit lo luxuryat del dabar - which had an Indian restaurant but to its credit it had a kettle!!! And a bar fridge so we boiled water and cooled it which was great. It was hot and the air conditioner didn't work plus it was a bit dingy. The breakfast was a tub of yoghurt and a omelette with chives and little sausages cut into little cute shapes. But the restaurant was dingy too.<br />
It was a worry all day for craig re money but we did go for a few walks up the street. <br />
We listened to Christian tv - they had three stations :) <br />
Off to bed and had to have our four windows opened. During the night I woke in the middle of a dream to see something hanging through the blinds, caught, and I thought for a second it was my bra hanging down and went to pull it down and realized it was a cat. We turned the light on because I screamed. Craig must have woken. The poor cat was hiding under a dining chair and was very timid. Craig picked her up and put her in the hallway. We saw her the next day lying on a made up bed in the levels reception area (nô longer in use.) I hope they treated her well. Craig thought she was full of babies. We told the receptionist who was also our waitress for breakfast. <br />
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<div class="blogpress_location">
Location:<a href="http://maps.google.com/maps?q=Khorog,%20Tadjkistan.%20&z=10">Khorog, Tadjkistan. </a></div>
Craig Iedemahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03293645533029832862noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8831805032802206889.post-50823313062366482012012-06-06T01:44:00.000+10:002014-05-17T22:59:42.226+10:00Desh homestayDesh homestay between Kylob and Khorog<br />
We asked near the sign and the neighbor to the homestay showed us the way up the side road access to their house. We met the father and his brother who were really friendly. The brother knew more English and mentioned he had google translate on his computer up the road.<br />
They showed us that we could sleep outside or in in two other rooms. We ended up In the first room inside where we could shut the door but the bike was just outside.<br />
<a href="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Tadjkistan/Desh/i-rKf6npS/A" title="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug"><img alt="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug" src="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Tadjkistan/Desh/i-rKf6npS/0/M/IMG_4371-M.jpg" title="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug" /></a>We were both feeling really tired and I had been feeling sick. I hadn't slept very well at the hotel at Kylob. And I think the attitude and hard riding hadn't helped. We had left Kylob as early as we could it was so unpleasant.<br />
We asked if we could have a meal and that was okay but I don't know if that put our hostess out. The stay also included breakfast. <br />
There was no mention of a shower so I don't know where they did so themselves. They had fruit trees and vege gardens all around their house which was in two buildings. The one we didn't see inside and the one we were staying in. There was an eating tent making it a u shape all together.<br />
We washed our hands when they brought the dinner which was huge meat filled noodles with cumin? And nuts of some kind inside. I couldn't eat it all even though we had only had one yoghurt for breakfast and a small bowl of soup at that place where I wasn't supposed to sit and eat with craig.<br />
They also had brought beautiful cup of tea which hit the spot.<br />
<a href="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Tadjkistan/Desh/i-zW7pQ4k/A" title="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug"><img alt="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug" src="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Tadjkistan/Desh/i-zW7pQ4k/0/M/IMG_4382-M.jpg" title="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug" /></a>
The wife then came over with four eggs and asked if that was okay for breakfast which was lovely. She didn't seem happy at first but slowly warmed up to us I hope. His brother, I think, was there when we got there and knew a little english but no one of the family knew any. They had a book which the wife brought out later that night.<br />
Their toilet was one of those wooden ones with a hole in the strong wooden floor. It was a hole but with a extra long bit to accommodate men I guess.<br />
<a href="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Tadjkistan/Desh/i-Q3bZRqd/A" title="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug"><img alt="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug" src="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Tadjkistan/Desh/i-Q3bZRqd/0/M/IMG_4340-M.jpg" title="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug" /></a>There was also a hole in two sides of the toilet walls which was fun to look through. I took a photo both ways. The toilet was near the road which was near the rushing river which separated you from Afghanistan where there was a track and Craig said he had seen people but I didn't get that photo :)<br />
I made sure I had a skirt and top on so it was easier to go!!! Slept that way too but in the end I didn't need to. Think I was a bit dehydrated. Didn't have to even when I got up to check out a scratching in the next room.<br />
Got the head torch and after ascertaining nothing was in the room I closed the door to the other bedroom. I had jumped closer to Craig at first but he hadn't even heard.<br />
Before were so tired we went to bed at 8:30 but before that we had spoken with the wife - have name elsewhere. I shared photos of my kids after her asking how old I was. (she had a booklet with phrases ) she was 40. At the end we ascertained that she normally had breakfast at 5'am. We asked if it could be later and she was happy with 8.. Lazy Australians. :)<br />
We slept til about 7!!! I had a leisurely look at all the photos before we got up. I had a look around and after going to the toilet went to wash my hands at the back of the house and looked at all the fruit trees and saw where they cook in a little hut. I mentioned the fruit trees and asked what they all were. The daughter knew a tiny bit of English. They brought me out some dried mulberries from the kitchen to taste!<br />
<a href="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Tadjkistan/Desh/i-z8Zspv8/A" title="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug"><img alt="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug" src="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Tadjkistan/Desh/i-z8Zspv8/0/M/IMG_4359-M.jpg" title="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug" /></a>
They were scrumptious and tasted just like sultanas only better. <br />
We had our gorgeous eggs and thick bread and jam. We also had dried mulberries and biscuits and so much. And of course the beautiful tea! With condensed milk.<br />
While we packed up they sat and chatted with each other and a couple of visitors. We took photos and one of their friends or relatives knew english so he gave us his email address.<br />
Our first homestay a success :) <br />
<a href="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Tadjkistan/Desh/i-7pcw6Bf/A" title="Homestay Family, Desh Tajikstan."><img alt="Homestay Family, Desh Tajikstan." src="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Tadjkistan/Desh/i-7pcw6Bf/0/M/IMG_4384-M.jpg" title="Homestay Family, Desh Tajikstan." /></a>And off we went to Khorog!<br />
<br />
<div class="blogpress_location">
Location:<a href="http://maps.google.com/maps?q=Desh,%20Tadjkistan%20&z=10">Desh, Tadjkistan </a></div>
Craig Iedemahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03293645533029832862noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8831805032802206889.post-69785816762442868642012-06-06T01:39:00.000+10:002014-06-14T23:42:12.424+10:00DeshWe set off early and it's a good thing we did as the road was slow and rocky and sandy at other times.<br />
We got to see Afghanistan across the small but sometimes raging Panj river.beautiful lush green gardens of Eden by the water now and then. You could see people in their colorful long clothes walking everywhere or sometimes a motorbike. <br />
The houses were mainly of mud brick with moulded steps and accessories et cetera. <br />
<a href="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Tadjkistan/Desh/i-SttKfps/A" title="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug"><img alt="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug" src="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Tadjkistan/Desh/i-SttKfps/0/M/IMG_4315-M.jpg" title="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug" /></a>
We came across a group near some construction machinery who must have had a meeting . They waved so we stopped to say hello. The two machinery drivers set off up the red dirt hill track we'd just come down on. The others stayed to chat and take photos and one shared his email with Craig.<br />
We rode long into the day and at about two we stopped at a village hotel where they called out to stop and eat. We were both pretty beat as Craig had ridden hard and I was starting to feel yuk plus hadn't been to the toilet yet since I asked at a petrol shop ( side story. Two girls were there to collect water. They waited patiently as we got our petrol. I asked them if I could take a photo. One of them I noticed especially as she had her eyebrow pencilled all across to make one long one. She wasn't particularly dark and so that made it more obvious. It hasn't come out very well on the photo but it reminds me.)<br />
So we stopped at the hotel where people were lying on the lounges. We asked for a toilet and the old lady walked me to a tent with a strong wooden floor and a hole. I went in and took off all my clothes and went and felt a bit better after that.<br />
When I walked out she was there waiting which was really lovely. They had a flowing tap of water to wash your hands and she asked a young girl who ended up being her granddaughter's friend to translate a little. She knew a little English.<br />
Craig had settled on a lounge and had ordered choi and soup. Another man was lying on the other lounge. I walked over to Craig <br />
I talked to the lady and said I am a babushka too. She had a little granddaughter with her too who had a little dress on and a necklace on. I went to the bike and got her a little koala.<br />
I went to craig and the man brought out the tea and asked if Craig wanted to eat in or out. He said out but then the girl and the woman's two granddaughters said to me to come inside. Then it came clear women don't eat with men. I asked and they said no, they don't..I asked why and she honestly answered "I can't answer that."<br />
I said I would but also mentioned that men and women eat together in Australia.<br />
The granddaughter spoke better English and asked me my name before the previous discussion . I walked to the kitchen but when my soup was ready they said to go and sit with Craig.<br />
By the time they said I could sit with him he had finished. I ate mine while he paid the bill and we said goodbye.<br />
I can still remember the lady's kind eyes.<br />
We kept going and enjoying all the scenery.<br />
We came to a checkpoint where we gave our passports. The policeman there was telling the trucks stopped there to come the other way there was going to be an explosion so they'd have to wait. We were certainly blessed we had got through that bit earlier.<br />
As we drove through Desh we saw the homestay sign close to the water so we stopped.<br />
<br />
<div class="blogpress_location">
Location:<a href="http://maps.google.com/maps?q=Desh,%20Tadjkistan%4053.360066%2C83.767102&z=10">Desh, Tadjkistan</a></div>
Craig Iedemahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03293645533029832862noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8831805032802206889.post-87570544484254711172012-06-04T23:48:00.000+10:002014-05-17T23:00:08.630+10:00KylobUnhappy Kylob<br />
Kylob<br />
Worst hotel of all I think and $50!<br />
Huge ex soviet building. Everything was worn out but that is usually okay and not why it we described it as crazy!<br />
They must have had someone else in the room before us as there was a full ashtray, an empty used teapot, two tea cups (she rinsed the cups in the bathroom while we watched) and two dirty drinking cups. The sheets werebeing changed as we arrived but they looked dirty.<br />
They left the teapot et cetera(took the full ashtray).<br />
The water was not on but there were soft drink bottles all through the bathroom. The water came on about eight.and thankfully so did the hot water. We realized this when there was shouting and loud knocking on our door followed by the door handle being rattled!!! Our host raced into the bathroom and flicked some switches and gave Craig some instructions. (the switch on the wall was all exposed.)<br />
It was very hot so we had the windows open all night and the door out to the verandah which seemed to have a lean so I chose not to venture out! <br />
There were light fittings everywhere but only one light bulb in the lounge room. <br />
The tv was working :). The fridge was not plugged in and don't think had ever been used as had an Australian plug. The air conditioner didn't work.<br />
We decided to leave early. Thank goodness we did because they were wanting to clean our room as I was doing the baggage trips down to the bike.<br />
We had the previous night gone for a walk through the main street and just got some yoghurt and juice for dinner. Thank goodness we'd stopped at that mountain top for the stew/soup and coffee!<br />
Kulob to Desh<br />
We set off early and it's a good thing we did as the road was slow and rocky and sandy at other times.<br />
We got to see Afghanistan across the small but sometimes raging Panj river.beautiful lush green gardens of Eden by the water now and then. You could see people in their colorful long clothes walking everywhere or sometimes a motorbike. <br />
The houses were mainly of mud brick with moulded steps and accessories et cetera. <br />
<a href="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Tadjkistan/Desh/i-SttKfps/A" title="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug"><img alt="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug" src="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Tadjkistan/Desh/i-SttKfps/0/M/IMG_4315-M.jpg" title="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug" /></a>
We came across a group near some construction machinery who must have had a meeting . They waved so we stopped to say hello. The two machinery drivers set off up the red dirt hill track we'd just come down on. The others stayed to chat and take photos and one shared his email with Craig.<br />
We rode long into the day and at about two we stopped at a village hotel where they called out to stop and eat. We were both pretty beat as Craig had ridden hard and I was starting to feel yuk plus hadn't been to the toilet yet since I asked at a petrol shop ( side story. Two girls were there to collect water. They waited patiently as we got our petrol. I asked them if I could take a photo. One of them I noticed especially as she had her eyebrow pencilled all across to make one long one. She wasn't particularly dark and so that made it more obvious. It hasn't come out very well on the photo but it reminds me.)<br />
So we stopped at the hotel where people were lying on the lounges. We asked for a toilet and the old lady walked me to a tent with a strong wooden floor and a hole. I went in and took off all my clothes and went and felt a bit better after that.<br />
When I walked out she was there waiting which was really lovely. They had a flowing tap of water to wash your hands and she asked a young girl who ended up being her granddaughter's friend to translate a little. She knew a little English.<br />
Craig had settled on a lounge and had ordered choi and soup. Another man was lying on the other lounge. I walked over to Craig <br />
I talked to the lady and said I am a babushka too. She had a little granddaughter with her too who had a little dress on and a necklace on. I went to the bike and got her a little koala.<br />
I went to craig and the man brought out the tea and asked if Craig wanted to eat in or out. He said out but then the girl and the woman's two granddaughters said to me to come inside. Then it came clear women don't eat with men. I asked and they said no, they don't..I asked why and she honestly answered "I can't answer that."<br />
I said I would but also mentioned that men and women eat together in australia.<br />
The grandaughternspoke better English and asked me my name before the previous discussion . I walked to the kitchen but when my soup was ready they said to go and sit with Craig.<br />
By the time they said I could sit with him he had finished. I ate mine while he paid the bill and we said goodbye.<br />
I can still remember the lady's kind eyes.<br />
We kept going and enjoying all the scenery.<br />
We came to a checkpoint where we gave our passports. The policeman there was telling the trucks stopped there to come the other way there was going to be an explosion so they'd have to wait. We were certainly blessed we had got through that bit earlier.<br />
As we drove through Desh we saw the homestay sign close to the water so we stopped.<br />
Desh homestay between kyob and Khorog<br />
We asked near the sign and the neighbor to the homestay showed us the way up the side road access to their house. We met the father and his brother who were really friendly. The brother knew more English and mentioned he had google translate on his computer up the road.<br />
They showed us that we could sleep outside or in in two other rooms. We ended up In the first room inside where we could shut the door but the bike was just outside.<br />
We were both feeling really tired and I had been feeling sick. I hadn't slept very well at the hotel at Kylob. And I think the attitude and hard riding hadn't helped. We had left Kylob as early as we could it was so unpleasant.<br />
We asked if we could have a meal and that was okay but I don't know if that put our hostess out. We had paid 50 pounds when we didn't have the 100 somone which would have been $20. The stay also included breakfast.<br />
There was no mention of a shower so I don't know where they did so themselves. They had fruit trees and vege gardens all around their house which was in two buildings. The one we didn't see inside and the one we were staying in. There was an eating tent making it a u shape all together.<br />
We washed our hands when they brought the dinner which was huge meat filled noodles with cumin? And nuts of some kind inside. I couldn't eat it all even though we had only had one yoghurt for breakfast and a small bowl of soup at that place where I wasn't supposed to sit and eat with craig.<br />
They also had brought beautiful cup of tea which hit the spot.<br />
The wife then came over with four eggs and asked if that was okay for breakfast which was lovely. She didn't seem happy at first but slowly warmed up to us I hope. His brother, I think, was there when we got there and knew a little english but no one of the family knew any. They had a book which the wife brought out later that night.<br />
Their toilet was one of those wooden ones with a hole in the strong wooden floor. It was a hole but with a extra long bit to accommodate men I guess.<br />
There was also a hole in two sides of the toilet walls which was fun to look through. I took a photo both ways. The toilet was near the road which was near the rushing river which separated you from Afghanistan where there was a track and Craig said he had seen people but I didn't get that photo :)<br />
I made sure I had a skirt and top on so it was easier to go!!! Slept that way too but in the end I didn't need to. Think I was a bit dehydrated. Didn't have to even when I got up to check out a scratching in the next room.<br />
Got the head torch and after ascertaining nothing was in the room I closed the door to the other bedroom. I had jumped closer to Craig at first but he hadn't even heard.<br />
Before were so tired we went to bed at 8:30 but before that we had spoken with the wife - have name elsewhere. I shared photos of my kids after her asking how old I was. (she had a booklet with phrases ) she was 40. At the end we ascertained that she normally had breakfast at 5'am. We asked if it could be later and she was happy with 8.. Lazy Australians. :)<br />
We slept til about 7!!! I had a leisurely look at all the photos before we got up. I had a look around and after going to the toilet went to wash my hands at the back of the house and looked at all the fruit trees and saw where they cook in a little hut. I mentioned the fruit trees and asked what they all were. The daughter knew a tiny bit of English. They brought me out some dried mulberries from the kitchen to taste!<br />
They were scrumptious and tasted just like sultanas only better. <br />
We had our gorgeous eggs and thick bread and jam. We also had dried mulberries and biscuits and so much. And of course the beautiful tea! With condensed milk.<br />
While we packed up they sat and chatted with each other and a couple of visitors. We took photos and one of their friends or relatives knew english so he gave us his email address.<br />
Our first homestay a success :) <br />
And off we went to Khorog!<br />
No money<br />
Deli Debar<br />
Khorog - Delhi bar. <br />
We arrived in Khorog with Craig feeling very worried about money. He was looking for a bank that would let him use his MasterCard to no avail. My internet wasn't working also. While he went to the bank I went to TCell. No go for either of us. Tcell really busy because lunch so big line up as they tried to fix so I said I would go back in hour or two.<br />
Had seen information desk so I went to look for that while Craig tried another bank. Had to ask a young girl and she asked her teacher and after a while we ascertained that it was the tourist centre I needed and it was through some gates near a park -just where I was but further. They need more signs :) <br />
They had a map there and she advised on motels et cetera. We should have stayed at palmir lodger or homestay but we went for what we thought would give us wifi and a bit lo luxuryat del dabar - which had an Indian restaurant but to its credit it had a kettle!!! And a bar fridge so we boiled water and cooled it which was great. It was hot and the air conditioner didn't work plus it was a bit dingy. The breakfast was a tub of yoghurt and a omelette with chives and little sausages cut into little cute shapes. But the restaurant was dingy too.<br />
It was a worry all day for craig re money but we did go for a few walks up the street. <br />
We listened to Christian tv - they had three stations :) <br />
Off to bed and had to have our four windows opened. During the night I woke in the middle of a dream to see something hanging through the blinds, caught, and I thought for a second it was my bra hanging down and went to pull it down and realized it was a cat. We turned the light on because I screamed. Craig must have woken. The poor cat was hiding under a dining chair and was very timid. Craig picked her up and put her in the hallway. We saw her the next day lying on a made up bed in the levels reception area (nô longer in use.) I hope they treated her well. Craig thought she was full of babies. We told the receptionist who was also our waitress for breakfast. <br />
money!<br />
Lumore's lodge<br />
Khorog - homestay -the next day 7/6/2012 Craig's mum and his sister Katherine ran around everywhere trying to send us money as all bank ATMs wouldn't take his or my MasterCard. After breakfast encouraged him to try to just go into the bank and use his card as in Samarkand when the ATMs weren't working for everyone.<br />
It ended up that both worked so we now have plenty in case of similar emergencies!<br />
It was 11:30 am by the time we were all packed after Craig had picked up the other from agar bank via western union from Katherine.<br />
We then went to leave and the receptionist said they had another room free now unexpectedly but we preferred to try somewherelse. <br />
We drove up to the direction of the palmir lodge but saw a homestay sign and decided to stay here and have been so glad.<br />
Lalmore is our hostess and is always so very gracious and accommodating. At the moment her sister is visiting from Moscow with her daughter and she has been busy with us and others , Swiss couple first night, Japanese couple second night just us third night. She cooked us all dinner the second night which was divine. Chicken curry and rice and a salad and dried mulberries, plums, figs, sultanas.tea and cherry juice - real cherry juice. <br />
Our breakfasts have been one to look forward to each morning not as flash as Marion's guesthouse but lovely big slices bread, real apricot jam (so many apricots you can count., Cherries(still with pips). <br />
Lalmore said that they usually only have milky tea themselves for breakfast as that is what they love. <br />
The first afternoon we went and had lunch at the cafe by the river which was just lovely. I had chicken chow mien and Craig the curry beef. We watched the kids (all boys) swimming in the raging river . Some jumping in and swimming past rocks to shore quickly as not to be swept further down. Others jumped in way to our left and did the same past us . It would have been freezing. We saw this on the 9th too when we went about 1:30 after the Afghan markets.<br />
The first night we didn't have dinner. I had been on the toilet all afternoon into the evening and didn't feel like anything. Craig had biscuits -.whole packet -(little).<br />
8/6/2012<br />
First morning we talked to Barbara and Marcus from Switzerland while they had breakfast before they whizzed off for an appointed time with a jeep from Palmir Lodge with two other Australians.<br />
We went down to the normal markets to look for a journal and bought one and an ice cream and then were bowled up by Zeba a local from 14 kms away. She was nicely dressed and spoke very fast English and didnt always listen to what we were saying, she said she spoke to foreigners to practice her English. She walked with us. I tried to take a couple of photos. <br />
We didn't buy anything except some pancakes -looked like battered fish). We gave her some and then sat down and had some water -ended up being soda water. She had spoke of her twin sister a lot and how not to drink beer and smoke because her parents don't and yet her dad had a big belly. She also spoke of the unemployed boys and how more of their girls were at university.<br />
She had been at university for four years learning English but said she couldn't get a job because she kept fainting and trying to get cure.<br />
Before we went for the water she introduced us to two of her professors from the Agha Kan university but they weren't her English professors. One was especially friendly and invited us to his house 25 kms away where they were going. We said no thanks about four times :)<br />
She also introduced from afar some one else she knew from college ready to drive a packed car. Took a photo and said hello (asked permission for photo).<br />
She ended up admitting that she would like 10 somones from us for her treatment. Craig have her 20 and we said goodbye. (we have been praying for her since. Better late than never!!??!!)<br />
We walked home and awaited the dinner we had ordered from Lalmore and weren't disapponted!! She looked stunning too in her headdress and lovely dress.<br />
We got to know the three Japanese guests over dinner a little, can't remember their names though the girl Craig said is Kim. She wasn't eating, just drank some juice after trying to get the tv to work. I think she understood English the best.<br />
They left the next morning as we were getting up as they had decided to try to get a flight from Khorog airport. Apparently getting onto a flight is usually very hard as weather is one factor and also only there are only 14 seats on the plane plus these quite often are filled with government officials. They were coming back if weren't able to but did not return.<br />
Saturday 9/6/2012<br />
Craig slept in and decided we would like to stay another night as I had been keen on the afghan markets which start at nine. We didn't get there til 11:45 so maybe not as much there but Craig bought a pancake and we walked quickly around and bought a tablecloth for his mum and a hat for him to keep as a souvenir. We travelled by taxi bus there and back which was great. On our own from town markets and packed out on the way back.<br />
We then went to the cafe again Craig for a salad and I wasn't hungry but we stayed there ages just watching everyone; the kids again in the river, bit more tentatively this time as colder still, ladies across the river washing big rugs by using bucketed water from the river.<br />
I ended up ordering a hot chocolate and cake and Craig a hot chocolate also.<br />
We tried to see the craft stall which we thought was in the youth centre but after walking in it was closed.<br />
On walking home we stopped into a little shop and met a lovely lady who spoke a little English called Asher. We took a photo after buying two packets biscuits and a box of juice for the road. She told Craig the hat was for me :). We later ascertained it is a mans hat.<br />
We dilly dallied the rest of the afternoon, Craig on phone and sleeping and me watching the washing in huge wind and enjoying the scenery and having a quiet time with bible and prayer and song.<br />
In the morning while Craig had been sleeping in I had watched a shepherd herding his sheep up the mountain and also been listening to a neighbors music traditional style. Was lovely morning even though I didn't know if we were going or not that day.<br />
After sharing photos with Lalmore and Katchya we went down to have dinner but all restaurants closed - 8:30. We went to a little shop and bought bread, two minute noodles and yoghurt for dinner. We bothered Lalmore for boiling water and in the end she made us a pot of tea also and brought more dried fruits; a real treat. We met her hubby properly and chatted and took photos and while we ate our dinner in the lounge room on the floor they chatted in the kitchen.<br />
Off to bed for last night :)<br />
Food<br />
Relax<br />
Outfit<br />
Very nice <br />
Sad to go<br />
<br />
<div class="blogpress_location">
Location:<a href="http://maps.google.com/maps?q=Kylob,%20Tadjikistan%4053.360066%2C83.767102&z=10">Kylob, Tadjikistan</a></div>
Craig Iedemahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03293645533029832862noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8831805032802206889.post-21704830696582053802012-06-03T23:49:00.000+10:002014-05-17T22:57:37.157+10:00DushanbeOn arriving at the gps spot for Marianne's we couldn't see the number we had but after knocking on a few gates we found it tucked away down a driveway with three other properties. On walking in we just were in awe of the beautiful gardens . We met a few people including one of the two receptionists at Dushanbe who introduced us to Marion herself (a fellow Australian) and we had a very long chat over a cold glass of water. <br />
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We were shown to our room and relaxed! Yes, we had wifi properly for the first time in five days so caught up on a lot of posts on Facebook all during the stay but firstly had a beautiful shower. We had asked re restaurants and groceries so Marion advised and had also said the driver there to drop us off where we want to go. So we asked him to take us to the cafe recommended on their room sheet called the Grand Dame which was her restaurant also. She had recommended a native one earlier but it closed about nine and we didn't set off for dinner till 8:30 or so. <br />
The driver took us to an ATM first then promptly got pulled over by the police at the lights for jumping the gun. Think he paid money but all we heard was arguing between the two of them then when he got back in he said "mafia" (he couldn't speak English).<br />
We had a lovely comfort food meal as everything in English; songs, menu, and style was beautiful. The waiter very helpful. On the way back guess who jumped the lights again. And yes another pull over :)<br />
The next night we decided to walk ourselves to the local cafes as Craig had seen some on a walk he had taken earlier. We also visited a grocery shop but bought stuff on the way home.<br />
Outside the supermarket there we met .Alyovar who was supervising a painter, Rafael, who was painting the garden seats. He knew quite a bit of English and after a long chat he gave us his email details and we our details. He already has two friends in Australia who email him to help his English.<br />
On the Monday morning we met Zulfiya, the other receptionist, and had some good chats. She organized another sim card as we had hacked at the one Farida had got for us. It took a long time so we didn't get away til 12 or so. Ps the breakfasts were superb! Oh and we met Daniella from Switzerland who was in the breakfast room the first day and the second, firstly looking for somewhere to stay and using the internet to find accommodation (she found Marion's full ) and the second day picking up her excess gear she had left there. She had been in Nepal and said she may see us in Khorog.(alas we did not catch up there).<br />
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Oh and they did all our laundry there too! Included in the price.<br />
We set off and were treated to some stunning scenery!! On the top of the mountain was a few food stalls and we stopped. Our first sight was a man giving a lamb to a man on a horse. Then we walked over and bought some stew of pulses which was very tasty but also had a couple of chunks of grisselly meat which we queried and were answered by a finger pointed to sheep nearby being herded up a nearby mountain.. It wasn't too bad. We also had coffee which was thick and sweet and hit the spot.<br />
At the table next to us were an older lady two others and a five year old cute girl. I had already smiled and said hello and asked how old she was.<br />
When we asked for the price of the coffee the stall owner replied three fingers and the lady shook her head and smiled. I said, "not that much usually ?" She didn't know English but held up two fingers and smiled. I smiled and shrugged and motioned doesn't matter :)<br />
The ladies then left and two boys sat there. We asked if they spoke English and one did. He answered our question what the cold drink was in the little brown bottles everywhere as tea or choi as they refer to it. So their version of iced tea :)<br />
We went to go and the guys in the chicory stall called us over and let us have a taste. The boy showed how to peel it first. We said our goodbyes and gave him an Australia keyring for translating for us. :)<br />
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<div class="blogpress_location">
Location:<a href="http://maps.google.com/maps?q=Dushanbe%20&z=10">Dushanbe </a></div>
Craig Iedemahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03293645533029832862noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8831805032802206889.post-91737233604270345722012-06-02T22:11:00.000+10:002014-06-14T20:30:16.725+10:00The road to Dushanbe (not that one another one)*Well we didn't want to be in Dushanbe until the 2 of June so we had a lazy start to the day. <br />
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First off by having a long chat over breakfast to American called Luke who was doing some central Asian research for his thesis. Nice to have a talk to a native English speaker for a change. <br />
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Once breakfast was done, change some more money and find some more fuel both involved some people running around for us and for the fuel a dash through Samarquand with a local on the back of the bike. Fuel was only 80 octane and I didn't make it back to the hotel before I needed to alter the timing map. <br />
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All loaded up finally and we were off to Korashina for the night an easy run of about 200ks. As we headed south to Shahrisabz, you cross over a mountain pass of about 1500m, at the top were some stalls selling fresh vegetables and a nice view, so we stopped for a look and to take a picture. The next moment we were surrounded, by kids selling some form of dried herbs, all sealed in nice plastic bags, mainly they looked like flower buds. I wasn't interested, but gave them some money, they handed me one of the bags, I naturally gave it back as I had no use for it. The bag was 500 som about 30 cents. I think the same bag of herbs in Australia would have been $500 and a jail sentence. All in all there was enough herbs to provide a reasonable about of money towards a house in Australia, all being sold by 10 year old kids.<br />
<br />
<a herb="" href="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Uzbekistan/Korashina/i-qCGSd5M/A" sellers="" title="" uzbekistan.=""><img alt="" src="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Uzbekistan/Korashina/i-qCGSd5M/0/L/IMG_3742-L.jpg" herb="" sellers="" title="" uzbekistan.="" /></a>We stopped a couple of times for something to drink, each time we would be surrounded by people asking where were going and what we were doing. It was great and most seemed friendly and warm. My favourite question was "Carte?" meaning map, to which I duly pointed to the GPS. Eyes lit up and big grins emerged. They all wanted to see their location on the GPS. <br />
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<a href="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Uzbekistan/Korashina/i-hzR7hPH/A" title="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug"><img alt="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug" src="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Uzbekistan/Korashina/i-hzR7hPH/0/L/IMG_3933-L.jpg" title="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug" /></a>About 4 o'clock we rolled into the, little town of Korashina and found a hotel that had English signs and a restaurant. So riding up to it we asked if we could put the bike inside the fence, once they realized we were going to stay for the night this was no problem. We unpacked had a nice shower and then enjoyed a fantastic meal, while listening to singer sing some contemporary Uzbek music, which I have to say I really liked. We were even serenaded, great night and the whole lot was $5, we insisted them taking at least $20. The staff were all really nice and the daughter of the owner spoke some English, which was all we needed. Later that night we were given a big bowl of Apricots for free and the next morning breakfast was also free. Such wonderful people. We found out the next day we were the first hotel guests there! So to you overlanders out there Real Komfort Hotel in Korashina, UZ. <br />
<a href="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Uzbekistan/Korashina/i-ZZhhGMj/A" title="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug"><img alt="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug" src="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Uzbekistan/Korashina/i-ZZhhGMj/0/L/IMG_3907-L.jpg" title="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug" /></a><br />
When we set off for the day they also gave us a big bag of Apricots, which are my favourite fruit. Yum, yum.<br />
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<a href="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Uzbekistan/The-Road-to-Dushabe/i-t2MKQMV/A" title="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug"><img alt="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug" src="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Uzbekistan/The-Road-to-Dushabe/i-t2MKQMV/0/L/IMG_3967-L.jpg" title="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug" /></a>So finally we were stopped at a police check point, but not to a bunch of surly officials, but rather cops with great big grins that asked the usual questions, checked our passports and sent on our way, they spotted our apricots so we shared those around (no pressure), in the end they chased us away as we were dawdling all very good natured. All the way we were waved, honked and whistled at, really nice. Next Police stop we had get the passports out get off the bike and I was motioned to the office, ok what is going on here, but in the end we sat in the shade and they just took the bike details and passport stuff. All straight forward, very friendly and quite chatty.<br />
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Sharon had been asking for some days if we stop at some markets to get a scarf and some material for a sarong. Our last big city in Uzbekistan was Denov (Denau) as we rode through town there was these huge markets. Okay I thought lets stop and have a break and Sharon can go shopping. What a great experience for the both of us. One of the stall holders offered me a seat in the shade, someone went and got a bottle of cold water for me while Sharon set off and found a lady that spoke a little English that took her around the market until she found what needed. As sat a bunch of Uzbek guys came and asked all about the bike and our trip. Really nice again I was overwhelmed by just how friendly these people were.<br />
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<a href="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Uzbekistan/Denau/i-jvtptP5/A" title="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug"><img alt="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug" src="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Uzbekistan/Denau/i-jvtptP5/0/L/IMG_0660-L.jpg" title="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug" /></a><br />
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Even after the market we had a pile Uzbek SOM we needed to get rid of, the currency is essentially worthless outside of Uzbekistan so we stopped and gave it to a bunch of kids. They had no idea what was going on as we drove away leaving them with 30000 SOM In their hands.<br />
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So at the border we finally ran into our Uzbek that wasn't that nice. The custom guy, I don't know if it was because he didn't like his job or whatever but he was in a bad mood. But to make up for it everyone else was at the border crossing was very nice. <br />
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So finally to on to Tajikistan, the first words that was spoken to us was "Welcome to Tajikistan" how awesome was that! A bit of paperwork to fill in and we were on our way to Dushanbe. The biggest hold up was the idle chitchat we had with the customs officers and police all really nice. <br />
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A quick 20k ride saw us near our guesthouse and bit of searching by Sharon saw us greeted by a very lovely accent, an Aussie named Marion, who owed the guesthouse and also ran health programs for USAid. The guest house was fantastic a little sanctuary where we could relax and take it easy for a couple of days. <br />
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*The movie Spies Like Us refers to the Pamir Highway as "The road to Dushanbe", we were not on the Pamir Highway (yet). <br />
<div class="blogpress_location">
Location:<a href="http://maps.google.com/maps?q=Southern%20Uzbekistan.%20%4038.578015%2C68.795358&z=10">Southern Uzbekistan. </a></div>
Craig Iedemahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03293645533029832862noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8831805032802206889.post-52300105038509783772012-06-01T15:49:00.000+10:002014-06-16T22:54:34.086+10:00SamarquandSo a great breakfast it was off to Samarkand, a great city that was the heart of trading on the silk road and was the seat of Temur's (Tremalane) empire. <br />
First step was to get fuel easy enough there were petrol stations everywhere. First one um we only have 80 octane, okay I will try another. Next one we only have 80 also. Ok not the best, I'll take 5 litres that should be enough to get me to Samarkand it was only 300ks and the back tanks were pretty full still. So off we went. First check point we get waved over, the cops asked if we spoke Russian, no English only, fine off you go then. What no checks oh okay. That is just fine with me. <br />
So we keep going and the next check point nobody even seems to see us off we go then and the next one the same and the one after that. <br />
So we get a ways down the road and the fuel light comes about 100ks from Samarkand. Mm that is not good and all the petrol stations we had passed in the last 80ks had been closed. This would be fun, time to start praying. A few more closed petrol stations, we were near a large town I stopped and asked a guy on the side of the road "Benzin?" he pointed and there was a sign that said Benzin 200mtrs. Hurrah, we pull into the servo and low and behold the sign on the pump says 91, who knows if it is accurate or if the fuel is crap but some fuel is better than no fuel so fill her up thanks. Again people came from everywhere asking what, where, how etc. Sharon was stuck in the middle of it all while I was paying. Great stuff normally we would feel super unsafe but it was all good the Uzbeks are very nice. That doesn't mean being slack with security, but you just have to take as it comes and we didn't feel threatened. <br />
On the road again and the bike was running okay so the fuel can't have been too bad. <br />
Somewhere along the line at one of the many checkpoints the cops waved at us, thinking we had to stop I pulled over just to be waved on. Okay maybe the cops won't be this good on the way Dushanbe, but hell they are good so far. <br />
So into Samarkand and on the road is a huge MAN truck centre, all the signs are in English and there are brand new trucks everywhere, unbelievable such <br />
a contrast to so much else of the country.<br />
I had the hotel approximately GPSed but the detail of the Google maps was on this occasion greater than that of my GPS so it was a bit of guess. So down this narrow little laneway we head thinking how hard is this going to be to find. Anyway around a corner in amongst all these decaying houses is fantastic hotel. Brilliant! They have a courtyard for the bike and the room is great. It is a short walk to the main sights. Our first night was nice shower and a rest. <br />
<a href="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Uzbekistan/Smarkand/i-GtpT3jp/A" title="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug"><img alt="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug" src="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Uzbekistan/Smarkand/i-GtpT3jp/0/L/IMG_0540-L.jpg" title="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug" /></a><br />
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<a href="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Uzbekistan/Smarkand/i-ZBVF3ns/A" title="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug"><img alt="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug" src="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Uzbekistan/Smarkand/i-ZBVF3ns/0/L/IMG_3669-L.jpg" title="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug" /></a><a href="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Uzbekistan/Smarkand/i-Q9VZRPz/A" title="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug"><img alt="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug" src="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Uzbekistan/Smarkand/i-Q9VZRPz/0/L/IMG_0547-L.jpg" title="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug" /></a><a href="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Uzbekistan/Smarkand/i-pN3dc7Z/A" title="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug"><img alt="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug" src="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Uzbekistan/Smarkand/i-pN3dc7Z/0/L/IMG_3666-L.jpg" title="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug" /></a>So after a nice sleep and a simple breakfast it was off to see some sights.
<a href="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Uzbekistan/Smarkand/i-Db9qmdz/A" title="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug"><img alt="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug" src="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Uzbekistan/Smarkand/i-Db9qmdz/0/L/IMG_0651-L.jpg" title="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug" /></a> First up was the Amid Temur Mausoleum, here we met a nice young who spoke excellent English and offered to be our guide. We I asked how much he said what ever think is fair. Um okay, that sounds fair maybe a little too fair <br />
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<a href="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Uzbekistan/Smarkand/i-Sq62tgJ/A" title="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug"><img alt="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug" src="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Uzbekistan/Smarkand/i-Sq62tgJ/0/L/IMG_0648-L.jpg" title="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug" /></a>He knowledge was excellent as he told about the history of Temur and his family along with the history of building and restoration that had taken place in the mid 90s.<br />
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After this it was off to see the Registan the most famous building in Samarkand. This building served as school, mosque and trade centre. Samarkand is located in middle of the great silk road trade route and people came from east and west to exchange goods here. <br />
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<a href="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Uzbekistan/Smarkand/i-mdh3ZXt/A" title="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug"><img alt="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug" src="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Uzbekistan/Smarkand/i-mdh3ZXt/0/L/IMG_0605-L.jpg" title="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug" /></a>Our guide (also named Timur) came with us to give the history. All this in English without notes and he had only been learning English for 6 months, he also spoke Russian, Uzbek and Tadjik and was also learning Japanese, very smart guy. <br />
<a href="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Uzbekistan/Smarkand/i-wkqSdxL/A" title="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug"><img alt="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug" src="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Uzbekistan/Smarkand/i-wkqSdxL/0/L/IMG_0601-L.jpg" title="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug" /></a><a href="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Uzbekistan/Smarkand/i-WcZ3HGF/A" title="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug"><img alt="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug" src="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Uzbekistan/Smarkand/i-WcZ3HGF/0/L/IMG_0627-L.jpg" title="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug" /></a><a href="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Uzbekistan/Smarkand/i-THVMNxG/A" title="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug"><img alt="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug" src="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Uzbekistan/Smarkand/i-THVMNxG/0/L/IMG_0565-L.jpg" title="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug" /></a>After we parted ways and I gave him what seemed to be all to small an amount, it was off to do some banking as I wanted to get some extra cash I had brought $400 US with me but it seemed to be too little so I went to withdraw some more. I knew this would be a little difficult, but we were told the National Bank had an ATM so it was off there. Um they only did Visa I would have to go Asaka Bank, so off we go to Asaka to do the strangest cash withdrawal I have ever done. The ATMs didn't work, I had to do a credit card transaction, give my passport details, sign some forms some stamping, off to a register to get my money took about 20 minutes to get $200 I have to be a little careful as I am not allowed to take out more than I brought in. Painful to say the least. <br />
The next day neither one of was feeling that great so we hung about the hotel and did a little shopping, we had Internet for a very short while so we checked email and let everyone know that things were good. <br />
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<div class="blogpress_location">
Location:<a href="http://maps.google.com/maps?q=Samarquand,%20Uzbekistan.&z=10">Samarquand, Uzbekistan.</a></div>
Craig Iedemahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03293645533029832862noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8831805032802206889.post-9074711203730701692012-05-28T23:56:00.000+10:002014-06-17T00:13:37.193+10:00Tashkent or where is the border crossing.Well there was no stopping it, today we had to cross into Uzbekistan. We rode out of the hotel wondering what the day would bring. <br />
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The view over Shymkent. <br />
<a href="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Kazakstan-1/Shu-and-Shymkent/i-G7SPdR5/A" title="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug"><img alt="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug" src="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Kazakstan-1/Shu-and-Shymkent/i-G7SPdR5/0/L/IMG_3483-L.jpg" title="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug" /></a><br />
Fueled up it was only 120ks to Tashkent easy day, it would give us plenty of time to cross the border and still make to the hotel with plenty of time to spare. First up another police radar stop, I didn't think I was speeding but once he realized I didn't speak Russian or Kazakh he waved me on my way. Mmm day is going ok. Next stop was plain clothes guy waves me down again seeing soldiers I thought I had better stop so I rode over to them and engaged directly with them. Next moment there was about 6 soldiers around the bike asking a questions, one who could speak English pops up, explains it was passport control and asks for our passports and migration documents. All cool. I would have been happy to stay and talk, we asked if we could take a photo, but were told no and to move on (by the traffic cop not the soldiers) Hah rather being harassed into a checkpoint we were harnessed out of one. <br />
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Anyway we eventually made to the border checkpoint and it was chaos people everywhere waving at me for currency and asking about the bike. We traded $100 US for 200000 SOM. I thought it was an okay deal as the official rate was 1863 SOM to the dollar and Internet told me there wasn't a great spread between the official rate and black market rate, I later discovered that 2700 was about right maybe more, so much for accurate research! I also found out that vehicles weren't allowed to cross here! Doh so much for an easy day. The great thing is while we were probably somewhat vulnerable, had gone to the wrong place and still weren't sure where to go I was having great fun. <br />
<a href="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Uzbekistan/Tashkent/i-smpL9Qn/A" title=""><img alt="" src="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Uzbekistan/Tashkent/i-smpL9Qn/0/L/IMG_3553-L.jpg" title="" /></a><br />
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This is the best shot we got of the first crossing, it doesn't quite show the chaos. <br />
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We asked the cops where to go, his was quite helpful, but I didn't quite get his directions. so we rode to the next crossing also crowed also drew too much attention to find out that we needed to go 120km further down the road to find an international border that vehicles could cross. (Also to add if you are going to shake someone's hand in this part of the world remember to take your gloves off it is poor form not to). <br />
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Anyway something that would normally leave me stressed, just left me with a grin from ear to ear. I was having the worst day of trip so far from a organizational point of view and it was the best fun. <br />
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So eventually we found the crossing point (Chinoz/Yallama for those interested) rode past all the trucks and cars waiting to cross, parked in front of the checkpoint gate and was let straight in. Alright!<br />
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First stop Kazakh frontier control all straight forward until the question was asked where is your Uzbek Visa, um in my other passport. Hang I will go and get it. This would be interesting, two Australian Passports. When he saw that I had two passports issued by the same country he eyes nearly popped out of his head. Very funny. Off to ask his supervisor, five minutes later he was back stamp stamp and it was Sharon's turn. <br />
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Then it was time for Uzbekistan. Queue up passports stamped, we had some customs forms that we had filled in that were in English, they were the old forms so it we had filling new forms in Russian, luckily there was a lady who spoke English well enough to help us fill them in. Filled them in and more waiting, more stamping and it was on to the next step. <br />
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Customs Clearance, the young bloke doing this wanted to see everything, I think out interest more than anything else. He had a big grin on his face when opened the bag with condoms in it. He was a really nice and it was okay that he went through everything. It gave us change to ask how to say a few things in Uzbek. I think it brought us a lot of good will doing this. <br />
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Finally we are out of border control, slow process but professional and people were nice. Straight out of border control to our first police check point, of to the office to fill in some paperwork and of course get asked for money. I actually felt sorry for the guy and almost caved he asked for $10 and then dropped it to $5 nearly straight away. But I told him, via sign language I was stupid and didn't understand what he was asking. (Most people will guess that first off). <br />
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So it was now it was back to Tashkent about 80ks, we had ridden a 200ks to cover a distance of 20. Up the highway 2 more check points that didn't show any interest in the bike. Plenty of people honking their horns and waving. <br />
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Finally into Tashkent and the Hotel was in a easy place to find, or so I thought until I was confronted by traffic coming straight at me. Shit!!! A quick uturn and it was down a back alley to the street we needed to be on. Mmm hotel is not that readily apparent. So we stop at a restaurant and ask for directions. It is 400 meters up the road no worries thanks for that. So up the road we go, mmm still can't find it back to the restaurant ask again. In the end I left Sharon with the bike and walked up. Found it, the numbers on the street went. 65, 63, 95 I am sure there is some logic to it but just escapes me. Oh the sign? It was the size of an A4 piece of paper, behind a tree. So rang the bell, made sure everything was sweet and went back to get Sharon. <br />
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In the meantime, the guys at the restaurant had found someone who spoke English and had sent someone up the street to make sure I was sorted. Fantastic, what nice people we had met here. A shower and change saw back their for a fantastic meal of this soup that was more stew and some. Ore shaslick. Also a salad that was so fresh. I forgot to mention in previous posts in this part of the world the veges are really fresh and very tasty. <br />
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The roof in our guest house, all the timber was hand cut. <br />
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The father of the current owner, who initially built the guest house. <br />
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Our first day in Uzbekistan was great, nothing went to plan but I went to sleep grinning from ear to ear. 24 hours had brought a huge turn around. <br />
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Some fresh baked bread. <br />
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Our host playing some traditional Uzbek music. <br />
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Jean-Pierre, another crazy cyclist riding through central Asia, he was off to Kyrg, his blog is <a href="http://carpevelodiem.blogspot.hu/" target="_blank">carpvelodiem.blogspot.hu</a><br />
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The team at the restaurant. <br />
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*A footnote, some of those who know us will know that we have a strong faith, we prayed about this before hand, call it what will, but I choose to thank God for the day he gave me. <br />
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Location:<a href="http://maps.google.com/maps?q=Tashkent,%20Uzbekistan%20&z=10">Tashkent, Uzbekistan </a></div>
Craig Iedemahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03293645533029832862noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8831805032802206889.post-71536230745557006842012-05-26T23:55:00.000+10:002014-06-17T20:13:50.877+10:00Shymkent.Well up early back to the cafe for breakfast and we were on the road again. <br />
The road conditions were very mixed brand new concrete express way with a 50 km/hr speed limit and crappy road with 100km/hr one. Crazy place. Cops pulled me over for speeding (I think) but sent me on my way once they realized I had no English. <br />
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The snow capped mountains were great, pity there was so much dust in the air, made getting a good clear photo hard.<br />
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Truck load of camel hides. <br />
Just a quick digression on the express way, China, Kazakhstan and Russia are building a hwy that will run from western China to St Petersburg. Of this about 3800ks runs through Kazakhstan and they are spending about 7 billion dollar to build it. Highway to nowhere? Time will tell. <br />
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Yet another cyclist making their way through central Asia. <br />
About halfway there was yet another police checkpoint, this time manned by plain clothes guys, maybe I should have kept going. Who knows, the guy was asking for money before I even started showing documents. I think in the end he wanted to see my licence. He took me to the copper in charge who did some chicken dance on floor of his office, while a bunch of other laughed at, he asked some stuffed I gave stock I don't know what you want answer, finally he yelled at me to go (I think) anyway another sour taste in my mouth. This time I was quite unsettled by the whole thing. I know it is part of traveling in this part of the world, but who says I need to like it and why do the locals need to put up with it. <br />
The rest of the run into Shymkent was uneventful, but there is obviously less money here and really bad pollution. I didn't really feel at all safe so the hotel was a welcome sight. We had two days here and had planned to do some sight seeing, but I had enough of cops and dirty looks so we made the most of our cheap ($70/night) 5 star hotel. It was nice, the staff were nice and food western. I just needed a break from it all. <br />
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This little horse was gift from Sveta when we went to dinner in Almaty. <br />
Markets behind the hotel. <br />
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Well i starting to feel a little miserable. We had to go to Uzbekistan next and apparently the cops there were worse! Groan not looking forward to things. Almost considered going back to Russia! <br />
<br />Craig Iedemahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03293645533029832862noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8831805032802206889.post-2482313276013081212012-05-25T23:55:00.000+10:002014-06-17T22:43:31.307+10:00AlmatySo we had 3 nights in Almaty and a pile of things to do. <br />
1) Get the bike serviced. The back tire was showing steel in places. <br />
2) Go the Mongolian Embassy and organize our visas to visit there. <br />
3) Finalize our accommodation in Uzbekistan. <br />
The first night had been taken with our late arrival the previous evening, by the time we rolled into our hotel we were both very tired, we had covered 3000 ks in 4 days and on both some great and not so great roads. The thing we discovered from Kazakhstan was the roads were either great or really bad, there was no in between. <br />
Day 1<br />
After a nice sleep in Anton took me around to collect my new tire and then on to the service guy. This took most of the day so I sat around and talked bikes and Kazakhstan with those who could speak English, had a chuckle with the mechanic when dumped oil all over the floor of the garage (an accident I have had happen to me on occasion) this took the best part of the day and it was well after dark before we got back to the hotel. <br />
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<a href="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Kazakstan-1/Almaty/i-RFFcxhN/A" title="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug"><img alt="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug" src="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Kazakstan-1/Almaty/i-RFFcxhN/0/L/IMG_3176-L.jpg" title="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug" /></a><a href="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Kazakstan-1/Almaty/i-HdSXsx9/A" title="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug"><img alt="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug" src="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Kazakstan-1/Almaty/i-HdSXsx9/0/L/IMG_3129-L.jpg" title="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug" /></a>In the meantime Sharon had a number of tasks to accomplish, get some passport photos and a SIM card Anton had written out what she needed in Russian and just pointed her in the right direction. Once she had got this done she noticed a hairdresser and with a little help from someone else she booked an appointment. So a big day of getting things done for the both of us.
Very much appreciated the help from Anton, I have begun to find that the help from strangers or as I prefer new friends is invaluable. Especially when you are rookie, we have constantly found that there are people willing to go out of there way to assist you on journey. <br />
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One quite well used back tyre. <br />
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One happy mechanic. Did a hard days work for about $350 including oil. <br />
Day 2<br />
After our big day previously today was to be a little more simple, or so we thought.<br />
First destination the Mongolian Embassy on the other side of town, navigation through Almaty on a bike is not all that easy as there are a large number of streets that Motorbikes are not allowed down. With that in mind we slowly threaded are way around the streets, but still managed to find ourselves on street with No Entry for bikes. Mmm better get of this street before cops see us, but it was too late and we found ourselves on the wrong end of law yet again. First cop puts me through the wringer in terms on documents etc before I have to go in sit in the car with the next cop. Ah bribe time so for about 5 minutes we sat in the car while we had the roundabout of money with me shaking my head saying I don't understand. Despite refusing to pay and not getting a fine it always leaves a sour taste in my mouth. I think I would rather just have the fine and be done with it. <br />
So we were free to go again and this time made our way down a number of small alleyways to get where we need to be, worst of all the street we needed to take ran of the street we weren't allowed on. Eventually after a bit of cross country we managed to get where we needed to be. Forms filled in, money handed over, we would be able to collect our Visas the following day. <br />
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After this another run of the gauntlet and we were off to Stantours to finalize our accommodation in Uzbekistan and paid them the balance of the money we owed them. David Berghof the owner is a German who speaks excellent English and I highly recommend them. <br />
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That night Anton took us and his girlfriend up into the mountains to this little restaurant for a great meal off special breads, soups and of course shaslick. It was a great night out and we will be left with yet another set of great people that we may never meet again. As I didn't have anything better to do with the 17" tire I had carted for nearly 4000ks, I gave it to Anton for his efforts, I thought it was the least I could do.<br />
One of Sharon's favourite bus stops
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Anton and Sveta <br />
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Our very nice meal, partly completed. <br />
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Good bye to Anton. Thanks for everything. <br />
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Day 3 <br />
We had to collect our passports from the Mongolian embassy and make our way to Shymkent for our crossing into Uzbekistan. Getting to the Embassy meant another run of the gauntlet against the no entry signs, fortunately this time we only needed a couple of hundred meters. Passports collected it was off to Shymkent. Given how late we left we decided to make our way to Shu the first night. We found a clean little hotel off the highway and it ours for the night. A lady ran a nice little cafe in house next door and gave a great meal that filled us up very well. She came and sat with us and with a little google translate, a pen and paper we had nice conversation about our trip our ages and the kids.<br />
Hotel in Shu
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Location:<a href="http://maps.google.com/maps?q=Almaty,%20Kazakstan&z=10">Almaty, Kazakstan</a></div>
Craig Iedemahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03293645533029832862noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8831805032802206889.post-35096758572173992772012-05-22T23:54:00.000+10:002014-06-19T23:14:35.947+10:00Four days of Madness.Our original plan from Aktobe was to go down past the Aral Sea (what is left of it) and past Baikanour to Almaty. Vitaly had told the road was not good fuel would be a problem. Some other research had confirmed this. So with this in mind it was going to be 4 long days as we went to Almaty the long way. Through Kostanay, Astana, Balkhash before arriving at Almaty some 3 thousand kilometers away. There we stop for a rest for a day or two while the tires and oil were changed on the bike. We would also catch up with a guy I met on the Internet, Anton, through another Australian traveller, Richard Winter. Anton proved to be a Godsend, but more on that later. <br />
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Sergei was from Ukraine, cycling to China. There are some hardcore dudes out there, riding into the wind on a motorbike was hard enough, and he was moving along pretty quickly. <br />
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Vitaly had told us Kostanay was 400ks, Google said more like 760ks mmmwhat to believe. We left early enough that it didn't make any difference either way, just a longer day. Well it turned out to be 760ks and about 10 hours on the bike due to an 80k section of really bad road. We were very grateful for our hotel that night despite its $100 price tag. <br />
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Next day and another near 700k day as we rode to the capital Astana. <br />
Our hotel on the outskirts of Astana
<a href="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Kazakstan-1/Kostani-to-Almaty/i-9Vq56cB/A" title="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug"><img alt="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug" src="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Kazakstan-1/Kostani-to-Almaty/i-9Vq56cB/0/L/IMG_3001-L.jpg" title="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug" /></a><br />
We highly recommend the Hotel Tamsan in Astana. $35 got us a good room, bike parking in the foyer, dining room, reasonable wifi.
<a href="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Kazakstan-1/Kostani-to-Almaty/i-3HhdgKJ/A" title="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug"><img alt="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug" src="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Kazakstan-1/Kostani-to-Almaty/i-3HhdgKJ/0/L/IMG_3002-L.jpg" title="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug" /></a>Example of toilet block/rest stop on the way
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More people from the road interested in what we were doing. <br />
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The hotel was nice and cheap and food was simple and filling, staff were very nice. <br />
Roadworks just outside of Astana - traffic making a couple of new roads
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Many Beautiful sights along the way
<a href="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Kazakstan-1/Kostani-to-Almaty/i-9H2hfZg/A" title="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug"><img alt="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug" src="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Kazakstan-1/Kostani-to-Almaty/i-9H2hfZg/0/L/IMG_3101-L.jpg" title="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug" /></a><a href="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Kazakstan-1/Kostani-to-Almaty/i-vS9w64D/A" title="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug"><img alt="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug" src="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Kazakstan-1/Kostani-to-Almaty/i-vS9w64D/0/L/IMG_3095-L.jpg" title="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug" /></a>
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akstan-1/Kostani-to-Almaty/i-2KDFd9C/A" title="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug">
<a href="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Kazakstan-1/Kostani-to-Almaty/i-WFsVfS9/A" title="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug"><img alt="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug" src="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Kazakstan-1/Kostani-to-Almaty/i-WFsVfS9/0/M/IMG_0737-M.jpg" title="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug" /></a>Plenty of caravans or little stalls selling dried fish.
The following morning we rode out through the capital which is less than 20 years old. Nice shiny buildings, but quite sterile. I wont rush back. <br />
<a href="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Kazakstan-1/Kostani-to-Almaty/i-3NQVp3s/A" title="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug"><img alt="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug" src="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Kazakstan-1/Kostani-to-Almaty/i-3NQVp3s/0/L/IMG_3031-L.jpg" title="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug" /></a><a href="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Kazakstan-1/Kostani-to-Almaty/i-vJ8dmdC/A" title="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug"><img alt="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug" src="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Kazakstan-1/Kostani-to-Almaty/i-vJ8dmdC/0/L/IMG_3033-L.jpg" title="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug" /></a><a href="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Kazakstan-1/Kostani-to-Almaty/i-5hcBNMZ/A" title="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug"><img alt="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug" src="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Kazakstan-1/Kostani-to-Almaty/i-5hcBNMZ/0/L/IMG_3037-L.jpg" title="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug" /></a><a href="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Kazakstan-1/Kostani-to-Almaty/i-f3k7CZk/A" title="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug"><img alt="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug" src="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Kazakstan-1/Kostani-to-Almaty/i-f3k7CZk/0/L/IMG_3038-L.jpg" title="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug" /></a><a href="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Kazakstan-1/Kostani-to-Almaty/i-3CPMRkB/A" title="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug"><img alt="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug" src="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Kazakstan-1/Kostani-to-Almaty/i-3CPMRkB/0/L/IMG_3035-L.jpg" title="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug" /></a>It was another big day with us riding to Balkhash and staying at cheap hotel on the highway.
<a href="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Kazakstan-1/Kostani-to-Almaty/i-zKG6Jcd/A" title="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug"><img alt="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug" src="http://ciedema.smugmug.com/OverseasTrip-1/Kazakstan-1/Kostani-to-Almaty/i-zKG6Jcd/0/L/IMG_3087-L.jpg" title="Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug" /></a>We had planned to go into the town and look at the lake but it was full of pollution from a nearby power station so we left it and continued on our way. As we loaded up the bike I noticed the tire I had collected in Samara was a 17 inch one! Not good! So I sent a quick message to Anton asking what he could do to help (mind you he had already organized a hotel and some to get the oil and tires changed). He came to back to me about on hour later with the perfect solution a Scorpion Rally the perfect tire for the next leg of the trip. <br />
As we rode towards Almaty these great snow capped peaks appeared on the horizon, it was a beautiful sight. <br />
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So finally we arrived in Almaty where we met Anton and he took us to our hotel where both just crashed for the night. <br />
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<div class="blogpress_location">
Location:<a href="http://maps.google.com/maps?q=Kazakhstan&z=10">Kazakhstan</a></div>
Craig Iedemahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03293645533029832862noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8831805032802206889.post-39470403080087024642012-05-19T23:49:00.000+10:002014-06-19T22:38:33.714+10:00AktobeAktobe, a town that has brought many happy memories and some sad ones (more on that later). <br />
Leaving Uralsk earlish, with all paperwork in order, we had planned to make it Aktobe and then camp off the road somewhere. <br />
The run to Aktobe was fairly easy for the first 300ks or so, with lots of roadworks and poor road for the last 150ks. The steppe country is beautiful, with big wide open spaces, reminds me of central Australia. Very windy though rode all day in a strong cross wind. We are probably carrying a little to much luggage at the moment. Will need to reduce that at some stage. <br />
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/108290741035853349609/StoriesFromTheSeat?authkey=Gv1sRgCLWrhvvsncSFOA#5749694629461868594"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-P8deZ4wftwM/T8sEzWQLwDI/AAAAAAAAAbg/SGBx6rAMpXw/s288/19.jpg" style="margin: 5px;" width="400" /></a><br />
We stopped to adjust some luggage and these people stopped to say hello.<br />
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The vast Kazakh step. <br />
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/108290741035853349609/StoriesFromTheSeat?authkey=Gv1sRgCLWrhvvsncSFOA#5749694802343039074"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Vgmp1pcyn6o/T8sE9aSREGI/AAAAAAAAAbw/pAdoCrvI78g/s288/21.jpg" style="margin: 5px;" width="400" /></a><br />
There was a lot of water flowing across the steppe, I assume mainly from snow melt after the winter. <br />
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/108290741035853349609/StoriesFromTheSeat?authkey=Gv1sRgCLWrhvvsncSFOA#5749694877163578482"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/--4i2YBS4wlM/T8sFBxA35HI/AAAAAAAAAb4/sEIthaQ8qfc/s288/22.jpg" style="margin: 5px;" width="400" /></a><br />
One of the many bypasses for roadworks. <br />
We arrived in Aktobe and immediately found a large supermarket, bigger than anything we came across in Russia. Time to get some supplies!<br />
While I went to get some money, Sharon looked after the bike. When I came back out there was 10 blokes around her and the bike all asking where we came from, where we were going and why. Luckily there was someone who spoke pretty good English. After Sharon went into the shops they all disappeared. <br />
As I was sitting there waiting another guy turned up asked me in broken English the same questions and introduced himself as Vitaly. As we kept talking he asked me where we were staying, I said "Camping", he asked where? And after little bit said no you're not you're staying at our place. Wow, just wow. Could he read the tiredness in my face that said the last thing I wanted to do was camp? The kindness of this stranger just overwhelmed me. <br />
He introduced me to his son, also Vitaly and wife Irina. After talking a little longer I went and collected Sharon from her shopping, she jumped into their car and we were on our way to get Pizza for dinner. <br />
As we were waiting for the the Pizza, we found out that it was Irina's Birthday. Not only did we get a dinner invite, it was a dinner invite on a special night. We also collected one of Irina's friend Marie who was studying to become a gynecologist. <br />
While all this was going on a bunch of young blokes came up to look at the bike and to ask about it and our journey. Really nice guys we took a bunch of photos and then they disappeared only to come back ten minutes later with a souvenir from Aktobe. Such generosity! It left me speechless and really still does. <br />
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/108290741035853349609/StoriesFromTheSeat?authkey=Gv1sRgCLWrhvvsncSFOA#5749694964136871138"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Q39L91OONsI/T8sFG1A7BOI/AAAAAAAAAcA/x0NNR0xRs-E/s288/23.jpg" style="margin: 5px;" width="400" /></a><br />
Once the pizzas were ready it was off to our newly found accommodation. We greeted by Vitaly's mum who had prepared a great feast for us. The Pizza was only for an after dinner snack! It was so much food! And we kept having our plates loaded despite our protests that we were very full. Fantastic. <br />
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/108290741035853349609/StoriesFromTheSeat?authkey=Gv1sRgCLWrhvvsncSFOA#5749695044165248210"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-GMtpxLa1hIo/T8sFLfJLJNI/AAAAAAAAAcI/oJcoJLbIJms/s288/24.jpg" style="margin: 5px;" width="400" /></a><br />
After dinner it was into town for some sightseeing. Aktobe is a beautiful city, filled with splendid buildings that were lit up at night. Some were brand new and testament to the extravagance of the President (for right or wrong). <br />
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/108290741035853349609/StoriesFromTheSeat?authkey=Gv1sRgCLWrhvvsncSFOA#5749695449199432818"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-niuJNq3usrQ/T8sFjEA2VHI/AAAAAAAAAcQ/gY6fPPGklkI/s288/25.jpg" style="margin: 5px;" width="400" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/108290741035853349609/StoriesFromTheSeat?authkey=Gv1sRgCLWrhvvsncSFOA#5749695649991643570"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-oc0cLfdE0xI/T8sFuwBcUbI/AAAAAAAAAco/_ltD6sISRHE/s288/28.jpg" style="margin: 5px;" width="300" /></a><br />
Svetlana - Vitaly's mum and maker of great food. <br />
Once all that was done it was time for bed. I had best nights sleep than I what I had done in a number of weeks. Most nights I was worried about what tomorrow was going to bring, this night all that had left me.<br />
With a nice sleep in the following day we headed to out and about to run some errands with Vitaly and Irina. (only after a big breakfast). It was fun and in the afternoon while Vitaly did some work we watched a DVD in English and caught up on some planning for the next couple of days. <br />
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/108290741035853349609/StoriesFromTheSeat?authkey=Gv1sRgCLWrhvvsncSFOA#5749695757205546626"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-7YXiIkMvHnk/T8sF0_bOpoI/AAAAAAAAAcw/VviVDZcEWwY/s288/29.jpg" style="margin: 5px;" width="300" /></a><br />
Young Vitaly and Reech the dog.<br />
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/108290741035853349609/StoriesFromTheSeat?authkey=Gv1sRgCLWrhvvsncSFOA#5749695827562260290"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-o-1Hf7DMnwE/T8sF5Fhk50I/AAAAAAAAAc4/KTvPgxWaG1I/s288/30.jpg" style="margin: 5px;" width="400" /></a><br />
Vitaly and Irina. <br />
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/108290741035853349609/StoriesFromTheSeat?authkey=Gv1sRgCLWrhvvsncSFOA#5749696008495749586"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-sMI1DgrnUf8/T8sGDnje2dI/AAAAAAAAAdA/m89E5qqtgnU/s288/32.jpg" style="margin: 5px;" width="300" /></a><br />
Sharon got this beautiful stuffed camel as a gift. <br />
So yes we actually stayed for 2 nights and all the food that we could eat. <br />
When the next morning rolled around it was time to say some very sad good byes as they drove us to the edge of town. These are people that we are never likely to see again, though I would dearly love too. They took us in when we most needed it and left us with amongst the best memories we will have. That we are unlikely to see them again, leaves also with the saddest memories of the trip. <br />
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/108290741035853349609/StoriesFromTheSeat?authkey=Gv1sRgCLWrhvvsncSFOA#5749696067076500178"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-JbT__pZozo4/T8sGHByOKtI/AAAAAAAAAdI/tpIw4878ZX0/s288/33.jpg" style="margin: 5px;" width="400" /></a><br />
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<div class="blogpress_location">
Location:<a href="http://maps.google.com/maps?q=Aktobe,%20Kazakhstan%4042.354526%2C69.528039&z=10">Aktobe, Kazakhstan</a></div>
Craig Iedemahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03293645533029832862noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8831805032802206889.post-43053395038126655102012-05-17T03:01:00.001+10:002012-05-17T03:37:25.034+10:00UralskWell after such a great night before it was up and about for our next destination, Uralsk, Kazakhstan. A new country and number 9 for the trip. The ride from Samara was pretty good and once we were about 80ks out of the city most of the traffic had disappeared. We were pulled over by Russian traffic cops who just wanted to make sure everything was in order and since it was, there was no problem. They spent the whole time laughing at my Queensland registration and license. <br />The border crossing from Russia into Kaz was pretty damn quick less than one hour. I wasn't sure if the Russians needed to see my Kaz visa so we pulled out our second passports. That raised some eyebrows and some questions about why we had two passports. <br />At the Kaz border control we were waived to the front of the line and were quickly on our way.<br />The run into Uralsk was excellent, big open spaces, great road and no traffic. Was having a great day.<br /><a href='https://picasaweb.google.com/108290741035853349609/StoriesFromTheSeat?authkey=Gv1sRgCLWrhvvsncSFOA#5743185852775725426'><img src='https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-23MFFPt-1Vc/T7PlGrm--XI/AAAAAAAAAZ0/t3vfzhBjhD4/s288/19.jpg' border='0' width='400' height='300' style='margin:5px'></a><br /><a href='https://picasaweb.google.com/108290741035853349609/StoriesFromTheSeat?authkey=Gv1sRgCLWrhvvsncSFOA#5743185903745243666'><img src='https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-4fSzXUsTd9M/T7PlJpfEGhI/AAAAAAAAAZ8/rWQFnWcAulA/s288/20.jpg' border='0' width='400' height='300' style='margin:5px'></a><br />Just on the outside of Uralsk we got waived over by a traffic cop. He started going through my paperwork and asking for all manner of things including my Kazak insurance. Which I should have got at the border. Shit!! He kept going on about it and was talking about $200 for 'protocol' and was trying to get us to return to the border and then to something about 3 kilometers into Uralsk. <br />He made some gestures about keeping my licence and registration, the end he pulled over a Russian in the hope he spoke English. He didn't, so I got my licence and rego back and was waived on my way. I am still not sure if wanted a bribe or not. Either way I was freaking out and had a pretty restless night trying to sort out somewhere to go to get it. <br />Come the morning we got the receptionist to ring an insurance company and caught a taxi up there. The girl in the office spoke enough English and bango that was problem number one solved! Big thanks to Sharon for staying optimistic, while I was real worried about everything. Getting the insurance went so well we were able to get our visa registration sorted. We ended paying someone for this, probably a little than we should of it was still cheaper than paying a bribe. With my paperwork in order this should be a lot less likely. I think playing stupid (or being stupid) is the easiest to avoid them though, make it too hard and it will be to hard! I just hope I don't come across someone with really good English!<br /><a href='https://picasaweb.google.com/108290741035853349609/StoriesFromTheSeat?authkey=Gv1sRgCLWrhvvsncSFOA#5743185968113624578'><img src='https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-EnZZL3oIF5A/T7PlNZRrpgI/AAAAAAAAAaE/N85N_L5TzZo/s288/21.jpg' border='0' width='400' height='300' style='margin:5px'></a><br /><a href='https://picasaweb.google.com/108290741035853349609/StoriesFromTheSeat?authkey=Gv1sRgCLWrhvvsncSFOA#5743186022601729234'><img src='https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-bdlJcK9lSDA/T7PlQkQqJNI/AAAAAAAAAaM/FbbmvlMIi4E/s288/22.jpg' border='0' width='400' height='300' style='margin:5px'></a><br /><a href='https://picasaweb.google.com/108290741035853349609/StoriesFromTheSeat?authkey=Gv1sRgCLWrhvvsncSFOA#5743186092865561442'><img src='https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-zk5XT5Vk70Q/T7PlUqA3I2I/AAAAAAAAAaU/NNlBcm8rsJk/s288/23.jpg' border='0' width='400' height='300' style='margin:5px'></a><br /><a href='https://picasaweb.google.com/108290741035853349609/StoriesFromTheSeat?authkey=Gv1sRgCLWrhvvsncSFOA#5743186163665294722'><img src='https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-jr_0Wef8M0w/T7PlYxw1VYI/AAAAAAAAAac/9neB2LP25PY/s288/24.jpg' border='0' width='400' height='300' style='margin:5px'></a><br /><a href='https://picasaweb.google.com/108290741035853349609/StoriesFromTheSeat?authkey=Gv1sRgCLWrhvvsncSFOA#5743186214570181698'><img src='https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-n_iWq6DdZF8/T7PlbvZgREI/AAAAAAAAAak/Hyy4mxG-12c/s288/25.jpg' border='0' width='400' height='300' style='margin:5px'></a><br /><a href='https://picasaweb.google.com/108290741035853349609/StoriesFromTheSeat?authkey=Gv1sRgCLWrhvvsncSFOA#5743186412809594306'><img src='https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-cwuLwFRA66Q/T7PlnR5dpcI/AAAAAAAAAa0/sYnqy75NNaw/s288/26.jpg' border='0' width='300' height='400' style='margin:5px'></a><br /><a href='https://picasaweb.google.com/108290741035853349609/StoriesFromTheSeat?authkey=Gv1sRgCLWrhvvsncSFOA#5743186469832340130'><img src='https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-ZXGHnz6tiG8/T7PlqmUvsqI/AAAAAAAAAa8/H-Ck24dz9-k/s288/27.jpg' border='0' width='400' height='300' style='margin:5px'></a><br />Tomorrow we leave for Aktobe. <br /><br /><p class='blogpress_location'>Location:<a href='http://maps.google.com/maps?q=Dostyk-Druzhby%20Ave,Uralsk,Kazakhstan%4051.191006%2C51.376054&z=10'>Dostyk-Druzhby Ave,Uralsk,Kazakhstan</a></p>Craig Iedemahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03293645533029832862noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8831805032802206889.post-76702977928870218552012-05-17T02:23:00.001+10:002012-05-17T03:46:10.670+10:00SamaraWell Samara was our last town in Russia for around six weeks. We had arranged a new set of tyres to greet us here and also a new chain sprockets that I had realized that were very worn when we left Suzdal, the wear rate had been much higher than expected. With that in mind we had booked two nights so that I would have a full day to work on the bike. <br />The ride from Kazan was pretty good, the road, apart from one 50km section was very good. The day also marked our 6th week on the road, it seems a lot more in some ways. We definitely need to start taking things a little easy as I am starting feel a little stuffed most days.<br />After arriving late in the afternoon we just ate dinner a kicked back. The room we were in had a great view over the Volga. <br />The day started with a chase for parts. Edward who was due to receive the chain and sprockets made early contract and I had what I needed by around 10am so far so good. However I still had heard from Sergei who had the tyres despite emailing him some days earlier and his mobile said it was unavailable. So after some texts back forth from the guy who I organized the tyres though finally I got onto Oleg, who then had his make Andrew ring me to arrange a meeting place.<br />It was about 2ks from the hotel so I got on the bike and rode it to the place.<br />Anyway shortly after I got there a guy on a 990 Adventure pulls up. Another big Kato in Samara! I said "Oleg?" thinking he was the guy. He said "Alexander" I thought ok I though it was Oleg but ok he is on Kato and we started talking in his very broken English and my almost non existent Russian. Anyway after a couple of minutes a car turns up it is Oleg ah things are becoming clear sort of. Anyway we go to get the tyres it turns out that Alex owns the garage, Oleg is a mate of Sergi, who is in Georgia and he doesn't know how much money I need to pay. Fortunately I do and after another phone call to Andrew it all sorted. <br />Anyway after I get the tyres strapped down it Alex invites me (via Oleg) back to a mates place who is also a Kato rider and speaks English. <br />So here I am on wet streets in a strange town heading to blokes place I have never met yeehaa. So anyway after a quick ten mintue ride we lob at Renat's (Ренат) house where there was a big Goldwing and Harley in bits in the garage. Immediately I was given food and drink. The guys were all into dirt bikes, snowmobiles and hunting. I had a really good night, talking bikes, laughing and watching all the spanner work. Really glad to have had the experience of meeting some fellow bikers. It was great night and I had lots of fun and some great Borsht. <br />Thanks to Alexander, Renat and all the guys for having me there. Awesome night.. <br /><a href='https://picasaweb.google.com/108290741035853349609/StoriesFromTheSeat?authkey=Gv1sRgCLWrhvvsncSFOA#5743181475566361634'><img src='https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Nnn6jxvm3p8/T7PhH5O8nCI/AAAAAAAAAYs/rFDDy5YFzbY/s288/19.jpg' border='0' width='400' height='299' style='margin:5px'></a><br /><a href='https://picasaweb.google.com/108290741035853349609/StoriesFromTheSeat?authkey=Gv1sRgCLWrhvvsncSFOA#5743181563339795138'><img src='https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-ZbK5R0mw4Ts/T7PhNANw6sI/AAAAAAAAAY0/jE-RdCrLq6Q/s288/20.jpg' border='0' width='400' height='299' style='margin:5px'></a><br />The mighty Volga. <br /><a href='https://picasaweb.google.com/108290741035853349609/StoriesFromTheSeat?authkey=Gv1sRgCLWrhvvsncSFOA#5743181616615947298'><img src='https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-75ufcyaVr9w/T7PhQGryfCI/AAAAAAAAAY8/2MHtT827tyA/s288/21.jpg' border='0' width='299' height='400' style='margin:5px'></a><br />Tyres are sold in the supermarket. <br /><a href='https://picasaweb.google.com/108290741035853349609/StoriesFromTheSeat?authkey=Gv1sRgCLWrhvvsncSFOA#5743181688038777106'><img src='https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-V2qa_wZSkM8/T7PhUQwUYRI/AAAAAAAAAZE/bv8mwZCohp8/s288/22.jpg' border='0' width='400' height='299' style='margin:5px'></a><br />Alexander and Renat. <br /><a href='https://picasaweb.google.com/108290741035853349609/StoriesFromTheSeat?authkey=Gv1sRgCLWrhvvsncSFOA#5743181765846701314'><img src='https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-7MIke2y9jcU/T7PhYynLFQI/AAAAAAAAAZM/vrdnC2UOtD0/s288/23.jpg' border='0' width='299' height='400' style='margin:5px'></a><br />Some great food! Borsht.<br /><a href='https://picasaweb.google.com/108290741035853349609/StoriesFromTheSeat?authkey=Gv1sRgCLWrhvvsncSFOA#5743181824592355410'><img src='https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-9PsyP471UI4/T7PhcNdOoFI/AAAAAAAAAZU/7T8Hd9lPPRc/s288/24.jpg' border='0' width='400' height='299' style='margin:5px'></a><br />Tool time Russian style. <br /><a href='https://picasaweb.google.com/108290741035853349609/StoriesFromTheSeat?authkey=Gv1sRgCLWrhvvsncSFOA#5743181881031520322'><img src='https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-sn7CgnKZoBg/T7PhfftX8EI/AAAAAAAAAZc/9eqI3QKARsA/s288/25.jpg' border='0' width='400' height='300' style='margin:5px'></a><br /><a href='https://picasaweb.google.com/108290741035853349609/StoriesFromTheSeat?authkey=Gv1sRgCLWrhvvsncSFOA#5743184151377484114'><img src='https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-ajVQdmgRR4Y/T7PjjpaCGVI/AAAAAAAAAZs/cdPKbdg6Rck/s288/19.jpg' border='0' width='400' height='300' style='margin:5px'></a><br />Tyres on the bike are still in good nick so I have decided to carry the new ones, time will tell how clever this is. <br /><br /><p class='blogpress_location'>Location:<a href='http://maps.google.com/maps?q=Samara,%20Russian%20Federation&z=10'>Samara, Russian Federation</a></p>Craig Iedemahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03293645533029832862noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8831805032802206889.post-2872396322179203962012-05-14T07:41:00.001+10:002012-05-15T00:04:41.128+10:00KazanThe further we got from Moscow the less traffic there was and the easier the riding was becoming. Funny thing I have observed, when the road is good, i.e. smooth, with proper line markings the better driving on display is. I have decided, to a degree on a 'if you can't beat them join them join them' mentality. Following the lead of another Australian rider, Richard Winter, who is currently riding around Europe (<a href="http://travellingstrom.com/" target="_blank">travellingstrom.com</a>).<br />
After two day trip we arrived in Kazan in beautiful warm weather. The city had a completely different feel about it from others we had visited, even the cops seemed pretty relaxed.<br />
Kazan was yet another town with typical Russian architecture. But it is also a very contemporary city. Kazan is the capital of Tatarstan Republic and it has some autonomy from the Russian Government than most of the other Jurisdictional Subjects (in the Australian Context similar to a state). It also has two official languages, Russian and Tatar. Tatar people make up about 48% of the population and are predominantly Muslim. Russians are 43% and the balance various minorities.<br />
Like many other Russian Cities Kazan has a magnificent Kremlin, unlike many it houses both a Russian Orthodox Church and Mosque.<br />
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/108290741035853349609/StoriesFromTheSeat?authkey=Gv1sRgCLWrhvvsncSFOA#5742135851653814290"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-wz4TG7zbc_8/T7AqIkncWBI/AAAAAAAAAWU/hPZOIyZFx2M/s288/19.jpg" style="margin: 5px;" width="300" /></a><br />
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/108290741035853349609/StoriesFromTheSeat?authkey=Gv1sRgCLWrhvvsncSFOA#5742135917507462818"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-YRDQT-PEZt4/T7AqMZ8LRqI/AAAAAAAAAWc/23CYUHHuWRQ/s288/20.jpg" style="margin: 5px;" width="400" /></a><br />
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/108290741035853349609/StoriesFromTheSeat?authkey=Gv1sRgCLWrhvvsncSFOA#5742135953856345954"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-RVr6-5DEefU/T7AqOhWbN2I/AAAAAAAAAWk/iHaoqMKqVl4/s288/21.jpg" style="margin: 5px;" width="300" /></a><br />
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/108290741035853349609/StoriesFromTheSeat?authkey=Gv1sRgCLWrhvvsncSFOA#5742135990884808642"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-i2rNresnW1o/T7AqQrSst8I/AAAAAAAAAWs/1kMN1aFVIMg/s288/22.jpg" style="margin: 5px;" width="300" /></a><br />
Again another great hostel filled with interesting people.<br />
I&I is great Hostel and is very counter culture. Sergy didn't even bother getting any upfront payment pointed us in the direction of everything to see and do. <br />
The wall of our dorm perfect for world travellers<br />
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/108290741035853349609/StoriesFromTheSeat?authkey=Gv1sRgCLWrhvvsncSFOA#5742136023218745938"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-92GxOoRT79A/T7AqSjvtclI/AAAAAAAAAW0/V1KWQfOAp4Q/s288/23.jpg" style="margin: 5px;" width="400" /></a><br />
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/108290741035853349609/StoriesFromTheSeat?authkey=Gv1sRgCLWrhvvsncSFOA#5742136059859448514"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-wcGClR4d38k/T7AqUsPiMsI/AAAAAAAAAW8/NqJ6UJVqGmc/s288/24.jpg" style="margin: 5px;" width="400" /></a><br />
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/108290741035853349609/StoriesFromTheSeat?authkey=Gv1sRgCLWrhvvsncSFOA#5742136118599399538"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ju6A6pXL_qI/T7AqYHEOuHI/AAAAAAAAAXE/pckEG-gqzug/s288/25.jpg" style="margin: 5px;" width="300" /></a><br />
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/108290741035853349609/StoriesFromTheSeat?authkey=Gv1sRgCLWrhvvsncSFOA#5742136154840439842"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-ZlKsd_Jdx4A/T7AqaOExHCI/AAAAAAAAAXM/H3wYM4SPFkE/s288/26.jpg" style="margin: 5px;" width="400" /></a><br />
And number of very interesting people.<br />
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/108290741035853349609/StoriesFromTheSeat?authkey=Gv1sRgCLWrhvvsncSFOA#5742136185745927698"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-0iJt4K7vvwU/T7AqcBNNbhI/AAAAAAAAAXU/RRJfu1rRsrs/s288/27.jpg" style="margin: 5px;" width="400" /></a><br />
Sergy the Hostel owner.<br />
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/108290741035853349609/StoriesFromTheSeat?authkey=Gv1sRgCLWrhvvsncSFOA#5742136219992826882"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-i8NNbwQsXtc/T7AqeAyTpAI/AAAAAAAAAXc/rGXEqr822Jg/s288/28.jpg" style="margin: 5px;" width="400" /></a><br />
This Chinese who name I didn't get, was riding from China to London for the Olympics. When we met him he had already done 10,000ks. That day he planned to ride another 150ks and it was already 12 in the afternoon.<br />
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/108290741035853349609/StoriesFromTheSeat?authkey=Gv1sRgCLWrhvvsncSFOA#5742136254726834674"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-iQbH2JOf7cY/T7AqgCLiifI/AAAAAAAAAXk/YmyZ3J37wTA/s288/29.jpg" style="margin: 5px;" width="400" /></a><br />
The guy on the right is Radik a Kazan local, the guy in the middle in Nunizo an Italian who hitchhiking around the world! Crazy guy bigger balls than I will ever have. <br />
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/108290741035853349609/StoriesFromTheSeat?authkey=Gv1sRgCLWrhvvsncSFOA#5742136298390763634"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-44nGLlQO0es/T7Aqik11OHI/AAAAAAAAAXs/tILF3ay13k0/s288/30.jpg" style="margin: 5px;" width="400" /></a><br />
This is I'mal who is studying in Moscow on a scholarship from Antigua. He was Kazan performing Reggae, great guy.<br />
We also had a photo is Anton who helped run the Hostel and RT who was DJing with I'aml but it was lost in a iPhone moment.<br />
I have an absolutely great time there. It was plenty of fun and really laid back. <br />
<br />
We were even hailed down on the way out of town by a local who wanted a picture and a chat. We should have taken one back and grabbed his details. On the way to Samara there was a number of people you honked there horn and had a friendly wave. Just great!<br />
<br />
<div class="blogpress_location">
Location:<a href="http://maps.google.com/maps?q=Kazan,%20Russian%20Federation&z=10">Kazan, Russian Federation</a></div>Craig Iedemahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03293645533029832862noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8831805032802206889.post-69685125909557095012012-05-14T06:11:00.001+10:002012-05-14T23:06:26.699+10:00SuzdalWell another run in mad traffic brought us to a very pretty town called Suzdal. James, who owns Godzilla's in Moscow also has built a very nice Hostel in here and since he is Pom plenty more English to speak. And wouldn't you know it more Aussies! A lawyer working in London and historian doing Chinese Research in the Russian Archives!<br /><br /><br /><br /><center><a href='https://picasaweb.google.com/108290741035853349609/StoriesFromTheSeat?authkey=Gv1sRgCLWrhvvsncSFOA#5742112846858146530'><img src='https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-5rpVoXUeRYA/T7AVNhEv0uI/AAAAAAAAAU0/8w88-PTgTiw/s288/19.jpg' border='0' width='400' height='300' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br /><a target="_blank" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Suzdal">Suzdal</a> is a 1000 year (at least) old town that features at lot Russian Architecture, mostly churches and monasteries. <br /><br /><br /><br /><center><a href='https://picasaweb.google.com/108290741035853349609/StoriesFromTheSeat?authkey=Gv1sRgCLWrhvvsncSFOA#5742112908289641586'><img src='https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Zht2WLahcHs/T7AVRF7KDHI/AAAAAAAAAU8/99u50-73Mj4/s288/21.jpg' border='0' width='400' height='300' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />Kremlin<br /><br /><center><a href='https://picasaweb.google.com/108290741035853349609/StoriesFromTheSeat?authkey=Gv1sRgCLWrhvvsncSFOA#5742112938038305250'><img src='https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-YjKYewq2xXc/T7AVS0vyoeI/AAAAAAAAAVE/PzhiweU-nkA/s288/22.jpg' border='0' width='300' height='400' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />Churches<br /><br /><center><a href='https://picasaweb.google.com/108290741035853349609/StoriesFromTheSeat?authkey=Gv1sRgCLWrhvvsncSFOA#5742112970480989618'><img src='https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-aqMSm-iGeuI/T7AVUtmutbI/AAAAAAAAAVM/btZ0BczAmf4/s288/23.jpg' border='0' width='300' height='400' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />This is a timber church and was moved from another town 400km away.<br /><br /><br /><br /><center><a href='https://picasaweb.google.com/108290741035853349609/StoriesFromTheSeat?authkey=Gv1sRgCLWrhvvsncSFOA#5742113002314240642'><img src='https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-enp5Oi9zfV4/T7AVWkMXkoI/AAAAAAAAAVU/EGl5n3wsDLI/s288/24.jpg' border='0' width='400' height='300' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br /><br /><br /><center><a href='https://picasaweb.google.com/108290741035853349609/StoriesFromTheSeat?authkey=Gv1sRgCLWrhvvsncSFOA#5742113032869945778'><img src='https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-FAu0gAf_6ps/T7AVYWBaobI/AAAAAAAAAVc/PzA6XUq8DMM/s288/20.jpg' border='0' width='400' height='300' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />Sharon really liked this.<br /><br />We spent a couple of days and had some time just to kick back and relax. One the highlights was a delicious meal of a typical Russian BBQ meat grilled on skewers, called Shashlik. This kindly provided and prepared by a fellow Moscow Hostel owner Richard and his friends. Delicous!<br /><br />All too quickly it was time to leave for Kazan, another trip we would spread over 2 days.<br /><br /><br /><center><a href='https://picasaweb.google.com/108290741035853349609/StoriesFromTheSeat?authkey=Gv1sRgCLWrhvvsncSFOA#5742113069523300754'><img src='https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-9YAv8DyXQ5c/T7AVaekQcZI/AAAAAAAAAVk/bTbj_baITgE/s288/25.jpg' border='0' width='400' height='300' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />James and the lady who runs the show for him, Larissa.<br /><br /><br /><center><a href='https://picasaweb.google.com/108290741035853349609/StoriesFromTheSeat?authkey=Gv1sRgCLWrhvvsncSFOA#5742113098182755426'><img src='https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-jWk960VoPKA/T7AVcJVNBGI/AAAAAAAAAVo/WjqT7-9xlag/s288/26.jpg' border='0' width='400' height='300' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br /><br />I thoroughly recommend hostel stay. It is a great way to meet people and get a bit better insight into the place you are staying. And the team at Godzilla's Suzdal were great!<br /><br /><br /><br /><center><a href='https://picasaweb.google.com/108290741035853349609/StoriesFromTheSeat?authkey=Gv1sRgCLWrhvvsncSFOA#5742113128978418978'><img src='https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-jwOEdpHL6C0/T7AVd8DdjSI/AAAAAAAAAV0/7y7giJt7G6c/s288/27.jpg' border='0' width='400' height='300' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />One more photo on the way out town.<br /><p class='blogpress_location'>Location:<a href='http://maps.google.com/maps?q=Suzdal,%20Russian%20Federation.&z=10'>Suzdal, Russian Federation.</a></p>Craig Iedemahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03293645533029832862noreply@blogger.com0