Wednesday, June 6, 2012


We set off early and it's a good thing we did as the road was slow and rocky and sandy at other times.
We got to see Afghanistan across the small but sometimes raging Panj river.beautiful lush green gardens of Eden by the water now and then. You could see people in their colorful long clothes walking everywhere or sometimes a motorbike.
The houses were mainly of mud brick with moulded steps and accessories et cetera.
Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug We came across a group near some construction machinery who must have had a meeting . They waved so we stopped to say hello. The two machinery drivers set off up the red dirt hill track we'd just come down on. The others stayed to chat and take photos and one shared his email with Craig.
We rode long into the day and at about two we stopped at a village hotel where they called out to stop and eat. We were both pretty beat as Craig had ridden hard and I was starting to feel yuk plus hadn't been to the toilet yet since I asked at a petrol shop ( side story. Two girls were there to collect water. They waited patiently as we got our petrol. I asked them if I could take a photo. One of them I noticed especially as she had her eyebrow pencilled all across to make one long one. She wasn't particularly dark and so that made it more obvious. It hasn't come out very well on the photo but it reminds me.)
So we stopped at the hotel where people were lying on the lounges. We asked for a toilet and the old lady walked me to a tent with a strong wooden floor and a hole. I went in and took off all my clothes and went and felt a bit better after that.
When I walked out she was there waiting which was really lovely. They had a flowing tap of water to wash your hands and she asked a young girl who ended up being her granddaughter's friend to translate a little. She knew a little English.
Craig had settled on a lounge and had ordered choi and soup. Another man was lying on the other lounge. I walked over to Craig
I talked to the lady and said I am a babushka too. She had a little granddaughter with her too who had a little dress on and a necklace on. I went to the bike and got her a little koala.
I went to craig and the man brought out the tea and asked if Craig wanted to eat in or out. He said out but then the girl and the woman's two granddaughters said to me to come inside. Then it came clear women don't eat with men. I asked and they said no, they don't..I asked why and she honestly answered "I can't answer that."
I said I would but also mentioned that men and women eat together in Australia.
The granddaughter spoke better English and asked me my name before the previous discussion . I walked to the kitchen but when my soup was ready they said to go and sit with Craig.
By the time they said I could sit with him he had finished. I ate mine while he paid the bill and we said goodbye.
I can still remember the lady's kind eyes.
We kept going and enjoying all the scenery.
We came to a checkpoint where we gave our passports. The policeman there was telling the trucks stopped there to come the other way there was going to be an explosion so they'd have to wait. We were certainly blessed we had got through that bit earlier.
As we drove through Desh we saw the homestay sign close to the water so we stopped.

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